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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2   Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/06/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 250
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Don't know if anyone else had this issue with the steering column. First, the pinion doesn't seat all the way on the steering column. Trying to fit the dashboard with this discrepancy doesn't allow the pinion to properly engage with the rack. I took a break from this as I was getting frustrated. Since the steering column is metal, I'll grind it down to seat properly tomorrow and see if that works. Also, since the steering column is metal, I can't get the FP01 screw to seat all the way for the steering wheel and the wheel is a bit loose. Tried to hold the column with a small pair of pliers and got to the point where I was afraid I would break the screw off and be in a world of hurt. Anyone else have these issues?
David
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,507 Points: 13,681 Location: ipswich
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Haven't reached this stage yet but I will look out for this possible problem.
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2017 Posts: 531 Points: 1,710 Location: Midlands, UK
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Mine all fitted just fine Building:
Ghostbusters Ecto-1, Ford GT40, Gone in 60 seconds Eleanor mustang, Shelby Cobra
Complete:
R2D2, Red Bull RB7 RC, Battleship Bismarck, Shelby GT500 'super snake'
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 Rank: Beginner Level 3  Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/07/2020 Posts: 22 Points: 72 Location: South Salt Lake City, Utah
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On my Steering column, I used an emery board to remove the paint and smooth the casting on the 'D' shaped end, then took a small exacto knife and removed the paint from inside the pinion. it is a tight fit, I 'tapped' the pinion onto the shaft. the screw went in without any issue. 
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 Rank: Pro   Groups: registriert
Joined: 13/03/2012 Posts: 306 Points: 847 Location: Germany
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There is a simple solution to both problems. Models are usually not cut a thread in the screw mounts. The reason for this is that different screws are used. One fine thread and other screws with self-tapping threads. With fine threads, I always cut threads in the screw mounts. This prevents the screw from tearing off without pretreatment. I always place a drop of Loctite thread locker in place before tightening the screws. When it comes to steering, metal works on metal.
Without proper lubrication, it will always bump up until the paint or coating is removed. There is a simple solution here, use model construction grease. There is Teflon grease for model making, which is also used in diffs and gears. Works flawlessly. Later on, the steering is heavily weighted, and preventive measures are helpful to prevent problems there. Forum Support Team
http://www.model-space.com/de/
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/06/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 250
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 Thanks for all the replies. I am also a model machinist. I make model steam engines that run on compressed air. I do have taps and dies that go down to 0-80 if I need them. I'll try that in the future if I run into problems.
David" alt=""/>" alt=""/>
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/05/2014 Posts: 230 Points: 657 Location: Northeast USA
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I simply removed the paint from the shaft gear and rack teeth with a wire brush attachment in a Dremel; it works smoothly without any lubrication at all.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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clear and scrape off all black paint at steering column rack gear and give steering rack teeth a generous helping of silverhook clear silicone grease
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US
