Essentially, how to unstick two pieces of face stuck thin mdf.

So given up hope for getting any parts any time soon for my De Agostini builds. Inspired by CaptainBirdseye’s build diary of Vanguard Models ‘Lady Eleanor’ – I decided to order it. It arrived in 2-3 days, all present & correct. As comparison, I find that nicely impressive. I will be creating my own diary when I have a few photo’s under my belt…

(Note: all below wood is 3mm MDF). Now the reason I’m a twit. Got the bulwarks placed on the false keel and the lower deck which serves to lock the bulkheads in place. Then it is pre-bevel the ‘Planking filling Pattern’ which fit between the foremost and stern-most bulkheads. Then place them on the false keel. There are 5 pairs 3 destined for the stern & 2 for the bow. Now comes the twit part. I successfully glued (titebond) 3 pairs at the bow & 1 at the stern (which is when I realised what I had done). Unfortunately, the 3 had been left overnight to dry. Now I’m left with the dilemma of how to remove & place correctly.

Tried so far; One side of widest piece. Managed to insert scalpel blade down over near full width but not long enough for full length. So far managed to stop it re-sticking. Tried cold water but not progressed. Read suggestion regarding the Victory wonky top mast and use of hot water. Might try that but nervous of effect on 3mm MDF …

My other thought, not yet tried, is to sand, drill, burr tool, whatever, to forcefully remove all mdf and then cut new mdf to fit.

What I’m asking, is, any more alternate ideas that I haven’t yet thought of please? - Very afraid of breaking something I don't want to.

Sue

Hi Suey,

I have read the link supplied by Robin and would start by going with that.

My opinion is that MDF is a funny substance that I don`t think runs with the normal rules of wood, but I`ve also read that a hot air gun/hair dryer could also work and as a last result "nail varnish remover".

I wish you luck with this task and hope you get some sort of result.

If all else fails and you can salvage enough of the parts to get a template to make new parts, then I for one could assist. I`m sure there are more who could assist as well.


Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)

If it was a contact adhesive then heat would be the winner as it breaks the bond down with plenty of heat. But I believe the glue you used was a pva type adhesive. Again heat may be the winner, but cannot confirm. As you said glue some other off cuts together to practise on. Build up the heat slowly and gently pry apart. You could also try putting the test pieces in the oven to build the heat up. The glue has to be pretty hot for it to break down. If it’s too hot to touch, then you’re getting there. But be careful as a heat gun could cause a flaming wreck.

I'm guessing my original explanation was as clear as mud. So now pictures to try and clarify my problem.



Definitely no 'heat gun', just an old hair dryer (and I'm not in the habit of trying to burn off my hair). If you have any ideas how I can get a saw into the available space ... why I have been using a scalpel blade as chisel but the blade is not long enough. The waste mdf from the kit is insufficient area to really test, so I've sent for a sheet from CMB. So when that arrives, I can try a bit of fun. Have thought of heat from an electric plank bender (if I can find the safe place it is stored in ...)

Sue

Suey what about Isopropenol (rubbing alcohol)?
Just be careful where you apply it if you don’t want every joint loose
Check this post on MSW
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/28145-alcohol/

Regards Gray

Didn’t think of that but definitely worth joining if interested in wooden ship builds
Basically the post talked of using Isopropenol and just reiterates the point about how to use it sparingly.
Enjoy the kit, it’s a very good intro into the kits from Chris Watton and Vanguard Models

Hi Suey,

Interesting little snippet of a thread discussing removing Titebond that I have found today.

"Usually you can call most companies that make glue to get info about it. In the case of Titebond, years ago I gave them a call and was told to use acetone to dissolve the glue. Once you get the joint separated, you will have to use acetone and a wire brush to get as much of the glue out of the grain as possible, if you plan to re-glue. Glue will not provide a strong bond if glued to itself".

I`d still try a test piece first if were you, then you can also test the clean up process.

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)

Yeah, its the rd label 'Original'. Maybe direct application would work but seems getting it to seep into the very narrow plane doesn't. My 'matchstick' test set are clamped together whilst curing the glue layer thickness must be very thin.

I found a very small quantity of acetone (smell is right but rather faint so not sure of pureness. Enough to submerse matchstick for a few hours now. Also fails to separate. This is just trying to twist on stick off the other - not trying to scalpel chisel apart.

I've ordered some acetone from Amazon, so shall play again. I'll have my new mdf sheet by then.

Oh the joys of experimenting

Sue

CapnBirdseye - well I wanted to try being semi-independent first, but yes I've contacted Vanguard Models.
Experiment-wise. First I realised the mdf sheet from Cornwall Boats was a slightly lesser quality - it felt a little less dense. So ability to separate 2 pieces stuck with Titebond Wood Glue; acetone, no effect on glue nor mdf, yes it wets the mdf but promptly evaporates with no deleterious effect. Ditto IPA. Water, soaks in over time and starts to delaminate the mdf before it really breaks up the glue.

I finally removed the 6 pieces at one end - but unfortunately did a lovely job of screwing up the false keel -as in twisting it.

So gathered my pride and rang VM at about 10:15 on Tuesday. Described my dilemma, got a lot of sympathetic understanding and then 'so which bits do you want ...'. By 10:25, I had an email from UPS, indicating a delivery had been booked. It was scheduled for a morning slot but on Wednesday morning, UPS updated that to arrive Wednesday and it arrived 14:00. I call that well above and beyond the call of duty. I have no idea who I spoke to but I am assuming it was Chris himself.

So an enormous thanks to Chris(?) and now I can start again, try not to make the same silly mistake ... etc! But first one of my cats wants to turn my arm into her pillow for a time. She who must be obeyed.

So I'll end this thread and start a build diary this time. Thanks everyone who put in suggestions but as it turns out Titebond is a little too good. If using, be sure you want it to be stuck!!
Thanks again to VM for helping me out.

Sue

Hi Derek, never heard of either the glue nor the company. Brief look around, can't say I found it easy to navigate - not to worry. Suspect "super fast grab time" isn't quite what I was after in the circumstances

I reckon the forum could perhaps use a section which held a data base of links; model manufacturers, tools, supplies etc, books, YouTube videos. Probably a never ending list. Keep Model Space and DeAgostini at the top of course

For all I know, may have already been rejected for political reasons.

Sue