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OCCRE TITANIC Options
darbyvet
#1 Posted : 06 March 2023 22:12:50

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I am back.Finally.After dealing with multiple life issues things have settled down enough for me to start modelling again.I figured the first kit would be OCCREs titanic.I approach this kit with some trpidation as my past experience with OCCREs kit are a bit mixed.I build the Stevensons Rocket and it was really nice, but the Jupiter was a challenge.

OCCREs kit is a 1/350 wooden kit of the Titanic.It is a basic plank on bulkhead kit with single layer planking.The quality of the parts so far is very good with no warping.

The instructions are typical OCCRE step by step photos.These can be tricky as the stages are not as simple as they seem.The major improvement over past OCCRE builds is they now have build videos on youtube.These are very helpful.

darbyvet attached the following image(s):
t1.jpg
darbyvet
#2 Posted : 06 March 2023 22:21:57

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The main hull section is in 2 parts that need to be glued together.The fit was a bit sloppy, but once assembled the part was very straight with no warp.I tried using the Model Expo fair a frame device to hold the hull up but to be honest it was about as much use as a chocolate teapot so I reverted to my usual technique of using shelf brackets screwed on to a flat board.Each bulkhead fit quite well into the slots but they were a bit loose so I used a right angle to make sure the bulkheads were truly perpendicular to the hull.

As you fit the bulkheads you also start construction of the deck.This involves planking the deck and building the structures that make up the cabins. these are built from straight parts that you glue together to make boxes.You then fill the seams of the boxes and paitn them white.Due to the small scale of the kit windows and doors are represented by stickers that you apply over the white painted boxes.

darbyvet
#3 Posted : 06 March 2023 22:22:21

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darbyvet attached the following image(s):
t2.jpg
GilShapley
#4 Posted : 07 March 2023 08:46:37

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Hi Carl, nice to see you back in action. The OcCre kits can be a bit of a challenge. I remember my Jupiter build. Must have enjoyed the challenge because I followed it with the Rogers 119. One thing I will say about OcCre is that their customer service is great. Any problems with broken or missing parts and they guarantee to replace them. Just fill in the online form and sit back and wait for the parts to arrive. I shall be watching you build with interest.
Gil
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Current Build:-
[color=blue]Stash Avro Lancaster (Full Kit)plus some extra issues I picked up at a good price
[color=blue]Built:- Norman Catapult by Mantua,Roman Catapult by Mantua,HMS Victory,HMS Victory XSection,Focker DB1,Bismark,English Carronade Titanic Lifeboat,American Civil War Gatling,Hummer,Sopwith Camel F1,Occre Jupiter ,OcCre Wagon, Latina Arab Dhow, Eaglemass Orrery OcCre Rogers 119 [color=red][color=red]RB7,OcCre Missippi River Boat, Model Airways Fokker DR1
OcCre London L>C>C 106 Ugears Scrambler, Ugears Hexapod Explorer UGears Off-Road Vehicle
darbyvet
#5 Posted : 07 March 2023 18:32:03

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Thanks Gil,
I agree 100% with OCCREs customer support.For the titanic they give you stickers for the windows and some of the deck structures.I am findign that some of them are falling off when I am sanding the hull and when I contacted OCCRE they said thety will send me a new sheet of sticker right away.

tf64
#6 Posted : 07 March 2023 23:19:29

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Hi Carl,

Good to see you back on the bench and looking forward to your excellent build-in progress.

Regards

Trev.
Work in progress:

Started San Francisco 2


























darbyvet
#7 Posted : 12 March 2023 17:46:35

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Ok the next step is to assemble the cabins that sit on top of the lower deck.These are made of flat pieces that interlock together and then you sand the joints and paint them white.Stickers will be used to represent windows.You can use the lower deck to align the parts and make sure that they will slot into the holes in the deck once assembled.



darbyvet attached the following image(s):
t4.jpg
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t5.jpg
admin
#8 Posted : 13 March 2023 06:23:21
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Fantastic to see you building! And an interesting build at that.

(Man, I get the life issues thing. My mojo is at a deep low)

Best,

Mark
darbyvet
#9 Posted : 15 March 2023 20:29:06

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OK the next step is to apply the deck planking to the lower decks.this was a bit frustrating because it was clear from the photos that some of the holes in the deck need to be planked over and some need to be open.So if you build this kit pay close attention to the build videos as it is much cleaer on those where you need to cut through the deck planking.A couple of coats of sating vernish were applied to the decks.Once the decks were dry the previously constructed deck structures were glued to the decks.
darbyvet attached the following image(s):
t6.jpg
t7.jpg
darbyvet
#10 Posted : 19 March 2023 16:53:28

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In the next step we apply the decks to the bulkheads and start the planking.this is a single planked hull and since the real hull was metal the planking detail will all be covered by paint so there is no need to follow the ships lines to make perfect planks.I love planking .I find it so satisfying to see the hull really take shape.

Once the decks were attached I faired the hull.the bow has a very sharp point to it and the bow is a rounded shape.

The first 2 "planks" are applied at the bow and stern.These have some portholes in them and they help establish the run of planks
I sokaed the planks and then temporarily atached them to the hull so they took on the hull shape as they dried.There are no really tight bends with this hull so I didnt need to use a plank bender.
darbyvet attached the following image(s):
t8.jpg
t9.jpg
t10.jpg
goddo
#11 Posted : 20 March 2023 10:33:00

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Hi Carl,
It looks as if you are off to a very good start with this kit.
Your photography and description are both top class.
Well done and keep it coming.
Chris
darbyvet
#12 Posted : 23 March 2023 23:41:58

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planking planking and more planking.I use bulldog clips and small clamps to hold the sokaed planks in place until they dry out and take up the curve of the hull and then I glue them in place.It takes a bit longer to do it this way, but it saves you having to bend the planks with a plank bender.

darbyvet attached the following image(s):
t11.jpg
t12.jpg
t13.jpg
darbyvet
#13 Posted : 29 March 2023 19:54:59

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OK all of the stealer planks were fitted to complete the hull and then I used wood filler and sanding to start the process of smoothing the hull.Since there will be multiple parts stuck onto the side of the hull to mimic the hull plating the hull doesnt have to be perfect, but I wanted it as smooth as possible.The hull plates are made of cardboard and I have read people having major issues getting them to stick to the wood so I didnt want it glass smooth.

The next step after this is to fit the lower level side pieces that have the windows cut into them.

darbyvet attached the following image(s):
t14.jpg
t15.jpg
t16.jpg
GilShapley
#14 Posted : 02 April 2023 14:17:56

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Looking good, some nice tidy planking their.

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Had a look forward in the build instructions to what you referred to re the additions/stickons to the hull. MMMM should be interesting. I look forward to seeing the results

Gil
Current Build:-
[color=blue]Stash Avro Lancaster (Full Kit)plus some extra issues I picked up at a good price
[color=blue]Built:- Norman Catapult by Mantua,Roman Catapult by Mantua,HMS Victory,HMS Victory XSection,Focker DB1,Bismark,English Carronade Titanic Lifeboat,American Civil War Gatling,Hummer,Sopwith Camel F1,Occre Jupiter ,OcCre Wagon, Latina Arab Dhow, Eaglemass Orrery OcCre Rogers 119 [color=red][color=red]RB7,OcCre Missippi River Boat, Model Airways Fokker DR1
OcCre London L>C>C 106 Ugears Scrambler, Ugears Hexapod Explorer UGears Off-Road Vehicle
darbyvet
#15 Posted : 05 April 2023 18:17:44

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OK next step was to apply filler to the hull to make is smooth.it doesnt have to be perfect because there are additional planks you apply to recreate some the the details.I used lightweight spackle.I really made a mistake here.Following OCCREs recommendations I covered the whole hull in spackle (filler).it then took me HOURS to sand it all off.I watched a video afterwards from someone buildign this and he applied a thin coat of primer to highlight the rough spots and then just applied filler there.That is what I will do next time.

I sanded the spackle off with 120 then 220 and 320 grit sandpaper.Once that was done I applied 2 coats of tamiya grey primer to the hull.Again I should have applied a sanding sealer first.I used dilute PVA glue to coat the hull to seal the pores in the wood, but it ddint work that well.

Now the hull is primed the next step is to apply the side details.These are paper strips.They look really good because they are quite thins and to scale.I have read that they are a bit of a nightmare to apply because they are made of paper and getting them to stick to the hull is diffiult and when you try to sand them to hide the seams in the parts they tend to fall apart.

So stay tuned for the next exciting epsiode where I either apply them with no problems OR the OCCRE curse comes back to haunt me.
darbyvet attached the following image(s):
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t21.jpg
delboy271155
#16 Posted : 05 April 2023 20:14:38
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WOW

That is one heck of a fill and sand job for something that doesn`t need to be perfect.

Looks stunning from here.

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delboy271155
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darbyvet
#17 Posted : 13 April 2023 19:18:09

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Thanks Derek.

So now we start adding the dreaded side detail parts.These are made of cardboard ( I think). I have watched some build diares that say these are a devil to work with .they dont stick well to the hull and they disintegrate when you sand them.

So with this in mind I toom a deep breath and started.I can confrim they are no fun to work with.They are quite delicate and will crease if you apply any pressure to them. I used a 30 second superglue which actually worked very well except it did spooge out in some areas.I think I used too much glue because I was nervous they wouldnt stick.If they dont stick well you will need to repalce the part you stuck because there is no way to get a partially stuck pice off again without it ripping.

occre gives you a spacer to figure out the spacing but it was hard to use that and hold the piece against the hull for 30 seconds so I just eyeballed the positioning.

darbyvet attached the following image(s):
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darbyvet
#18 Posted : 13 April 2023 19:21:21

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SO there are 35 of these cardboard peice to apply to each side of the hull.Once they are all applied you need to use filler to hide the seams between the pieces prior to painting and then you prime the hull in preparation for the final hull colors.I also added the keel piece and the 2 outer pieces to the turn of the hull.
darbyvet attached the following image(s):
t26.jpg
t27.jpg
t28.jpg
darbyvet
#19 Posted : 13 April 2023 19:25:22

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I used lightweight spackle again for filler and applied it very sparingly.I read that you cant use anything under 320 grit sandpaper to sand these parts of they just fall apart. I used 400 grit to sand them seams and put a light coat of primer on a test area.As you can see it looks awful.This will likely need repeat sanding with 600-800 grit sandpaper to get a smooth result and you have to go VERY slowly or the paper just starts peeling up ans you can see it did on the top piece in the photo.
darbyvet attached the following image(s):
t29.jpg
birdaj2
#20 Posted : 13 April 2023 19:30:54

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Carl

Hope you are keeping well.

That is some very neat and tidy work on your titanic.

Its really interesting to see how Occre have approached some of the kit detailing.

The part-work by Hachette in (around) 2001 used diecut wood pieces to add that raised hull detail. That kit being based on the original Amati offering. Very similar though in trying to get it all added properly :-)

Your build really is looking very neat knowing how difficult some of these pieces are to add.

Tony
Happy Modelling

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