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Issue 9
Contents
Wall Panels H, I, J and K, Table Parts x 8 and Coffee Grinder parts x 4.
Panelling
Note: The first picture shows the frame temporarily fixed to the floor. I did this to keep the frame safe and stopping and warping.
Take the frame that you assembled in issue 7. Now take panel “I” and position it as shown, gluing in place. I used mini clamps to hold mine in position whilst the glued dried. The book does say to apply water both sides to bend the panels in place, but I found they bent nicely without this process. Allow the glue to set before placing the next panels.
Next, glue panel “H” as shown, again using the clamps to secure the wood panelling in place whilst allowing to dry. Do the same with panels K & J to the opposite side.
Once the panelling is in place and fully dried, lightly sand, especially around the door frame as well as the joining areas until smooth.
Assembling the Kitchen Table
Take the kitchen parts and separate the pieces and sand the darker sides of the wood, otherwise they will stand out after painting. Now paint the parts before assembly. I used some acrylic light brown mixed with a little mud brown, diluted 1 part water, 1 part paint. For the smaller parts and the legs, I used a piece of wood with double sided tape and stuck the parts to it whilst I painted them. Allow these to thoroughly dry before moving on to the next step.
Take one of the table shelves and glue two of the legs, inserting the notches into the legs. Now take the second shelf and place it to the other notches of the leg. Once in place, glue the remaining two legs to the other side. Insert the two side pieces as shown. Next, fix the horizontal bars to the upper shelf, again as shown, leaving room at the back. Glue the decorative panel to the tabletop and then glue it to the base, aligning the back with the other pieces. Now fix the towel rail as shown using super glue for a quicker fix. Assemble the four remaining drawer parts using wood glue and super glue for the handle.
Take the coffee grinder parts and glue the small square piece to the main part and make sure it is centred. Using a pair of tweezers, glue, using super glue, the handle in the hole. Finally super glue the metal grinder part to the recess on the top.
Note: I lightly sanded my table and coffee grinder to take off any excess paint and expose some of the grain in the wood before giving it a light coat of varnish.
That completes this issue.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Issue 10
Contents
Wallpaper A, B & C, Ceiling Parts A & B, and a lamp.
Wallpapering the Walls
Take the floor assembly in issue 5 and attach the wall from issue 9 and insert the tabs. Make a mark on the wall from the centre of the hole in the floor as shown. Using a set square draw a straight line down the wall as shown. Before applying the wallpaper, make sure the edges are smooth and sand if necessary. Make sure there is enough gap between the edges and the floor for the wallpaper. The edges must not stick out. Sand if necessary.
The wallpaper is self-adhesive. Taking the wallpaper A, peel off the backing at the bottom to about 2cm and fold back the protective film. Carefully position it to the wall as shown, covering the doorway. Press along the edges and stick it to the wall making sure you don’t get any air bubbles. Fold the wallpaper projecting over the edges and stick it to the side of the wall.
Turn the wall over and position it on a modelling mat so you can score the doorway with a sharp craft knife to take the excess wallpaper away as shown.
Now paper the other side of the wall as before using the two remaining wallpapers. Take the smaller sheet C, and place it as shown lining it up with the line you drew earlier. Stick the remaining paper to the other side, then fold and stick the paper to the edges as you did with the opposite side. Now turn the wall over and cut away the door area as before.
Ceiling
Glue the two ceiling parts together using wood glue. To prevent the glued parts from coming apart, tape the join and use clamps or pegs to both ends. Allow this to dry.
Note: The magazine shows how to paint the ceiling using diluted brown acrylic paint you used with the flooring in previous issues. I have decided I wanted the ceiling white. I masked off the edges and beam areas before spraying it with a satin white. This is purely a personal choice, and you should choose whatever your preference is.
That completes this issue.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Issue 11
Contents
Panel H x 2, Panel I x 2, Panels J and K, Decorative strips 2 x vertical and 1 horizontal, tabletop, lower tabletop, and table legs x 4.
Panels
Take the frame that you assembled in issue 8. Now take panel “K” and position it as shown, gluing in place. I used mini clamps to hold mine in position whilst the glued dried. The book does say to apply water both sides to bend the panels in place, but I found they bent nicely without this process. Allow the glue to set before placing the next panels.
Next, glue panel “I” as shown, again using the clamps to secure the wood panelling in place whilst allowing to dry. Test fit panel H before gluing. If it is a tight fit sand the ends to ensure that the panel fits correctly. Do the same with panels I & J and H to the opposite side.
Once the panelling is in place and fully dried, lightly sand, especially around the door frame as well as the joining areas until smooth.
Table
Take the top of the table piece along with the underside part and glue together as shown, and allow to dry fully. At this stage I painted this part white and allowed to dry again before attaching the legs.
The legs had a small excess of wood at the top of each one, so I sanded down smooth before attaching these to the table. You may also notice that some of the legs maybe a tight fit, so sand as necessary to ensure a perfect fit. When you are happy that all four legs fit correctly and that they are all the same size, then proceed to glue in place.
Once the table legs have had a chance to dry, the next step is to paint the table.
Note: The book gives you the colours to mix, I didn’t have the indigo blue as suggested, only natural blue, so I added a little red to achieve the same colour.
That completes this issue.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Issue 12
Contents
Wallpaper A & B, Ceiling Beams B, D G & J, Mirror Frame Front & Back, Side Panels & Shelf, Mirror and small wooden stick.
Wallpapering the Walls
Take the wall assembly from issue 11 and check the sides the 2 wallpapers will go. Wallpaper B will be stuck to panels I & J. Before applying the wallpaper, make sure the edges are smooth and sand if necessary. The edges must not stick out. Sand if necessary.
The wallpaper is self-adhesive. Taking the wallpaper B, peel off the backing at the bottom to about 2cm and fold back the protective film. Carefully position it to the wall as shown, covering the doorway. Press along the edges and stick it to the wall making sure you don’t get any air bubbles. Fold the wallpaper projecting over the edges and trim off any excess.
Turn the wall over and position it on a modelling mat so you can score the doorway with a sharp craft knife to take the excess wallpaper away as shown.
Now paper the other side of the wall as before using the remaining wallpaper A. Stick the remaining paper to the other side, then fold and cut off any excess as before. Now turn the wall over and cut away the door area as before.
Door Architraves
Prepare the decorative strips from issue 11, by separating the trim strips from each other using a kraft knife. Sand the cut side smooth and paint this side with white paint to match the rest of the strip. Now take the wavey strip and test fit this piece to the top of the opening part of the wall, sanding if necessary. Using wood glue attach this part in place making sure it is centred. Position the left and right strips to the door opening, making sure the short tabs are at the top and fit into the horizontal strip and glue in place.
Note: At this stage I then fitted the wall to the floor with the strips in place fitting the longer tabs in the holes in the floor. That way you can be sure the architraves will be centred. I left them in place until the glue had dried.
Ceiling Beams
Assemble out the decorative ceiling beams. Lay out beams D & G as shown and join with wood glue. Now insert beam B into the remaining slot on G. Finally attach beam J as shown and allow the glue to dry.
Note: To make the beams look more natural, I used a kraft knife to make small notches out and used a scribe to make marks in the wood. I then painted the assembly using a diluted dark brown paint. Once dry I used some black wash to highlight areas of the woof I had scribed before using some varnish to seal it.
Now take the ceiling assembly from issue 10 and attach the walls. Once in place, glue the beam assembly to the ceiling using the walls as a template to fit as shown.
Assembly of the Bathroom Mirror.
Separate the parts with a kraft knife. Apply wood glue to the ends of the shelf part and join to both the side parts as shown. Next, glue the front and back frames of the mirror together, noting the notches on the front panel. Now, prepare for painting by sanding the frames, smoothing the edges. I painted this with a light brown paint and sanded slightly once dry. Using some double sided tape, stick a 2mm piece around the edge of the mirror. Peel off the protected film and insert the mirror into the mirror frame from the back. Take the small wooden stick and cut 3 pieces, 28mm, and 2x 4mm. insert the 28mm stick and thread it through the holes on the shelf unit part gluing at both ends. Slide the mirror frame onto the shelf unit and push the 4mm rods into both the shelf unit and mirror frame carefully. Store this carefully as it will be hung on a wall in an upcoming issue.
That completes this issue.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Something Extra
I have decided that I would make my own skirting boards as they don’t come with any. I took some tea/coffee stirring sticks and placed them in boiling water for half an hour. I then cut each piece roughly to size, but not exact, and fixed them around the bottom edges of the wall with small clamps and carefully moulding the sticks to follow the curved areas. These were allowed to dry for 24 hours.
Once dried I then scored the wallpaper using the sticks as a template, peeling off the excess wallpaper so the wooden sticks would stick directly to the wooden part of the wall. The sticks were then painted white. Once dry, I then cut each part to size and glued in place and used small clamps until dry. I then lightly sanded and gave each one another coat of white paint.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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