Ok, well I thought seeing as this is taking up so much of my time, it would be good to keep a build diary, both personally but also on the forum as seems like everyone is getting really useful constructive criticism.

For my first post, hopefully there should be an image showing my workstation where most of the intricate details will be done. I've set this up with a standard illuminated magnifying stand (from argos - seems to do the trick for me), but also have a USB microscope. This is a fantastic bit of kit (£30 from Maplins), especially when trying to get the small parts nicely finished. I tend to have it pointed as in the picture, aiming at the side whilst I work top down using the magnifier. It means I get a live 22" streaming picture onto my computers on one monitor, whilst on the other I have the original pictures to compare to. Ok, maybe it's a little overboard, but it saves straining my eyes.





My plan of action is actually to do a bit of 'kit bashing' or so it seems to be called. Mainly on the smaller details like the Cannons - especially seeing as we've got some time before. And just to stretch myself a little, I decided that I want my Cannons to move - which means functioning axels (Oh why am I doing this??) Actually it's been pretty simple, a little time consuming. I'm actually using the small pieces of 3 ply wood that we removed from the main hull. They are perfect size to work with and split really easily into each seperate bit of ply (after having trimmed the edges to get the correct width - judged simply by the width of the wedge.


I've then used a combination of knife / marking tool and sandpaper to hollow out each side - then re-glued back together.

Sciance meets model making cool!!

I love the idea of using a computerised microscope

Man, what a brill idea of using such a high tech approach to the world of model making, but I'm afraid, it is way over this old buzzards head I am just managing to get my head around my PC as it is, but I would be very interested in what over micro-operations you carry out in future? John.W

Forgot to mention I was a physicist in a past life time...... it gives one a fascination with microscopes and small things. Just waiting for someone to manufacure a 0.05 mm drill bit and my life is complete.

I shall leave my motorised computer controlled robotic arm out for the moment - it's a little too clunky, but would look cool on a pic just for show.

Hi Karl,

The one I have is the 200x - this seems plenty enough, though no reason why not to go over higher. It's not a fixed magnification, it is adjustable so no problem at all.

The main thing to remember is that the microscopes in this price range (cheaper than the £1000-3000) ones is that they don't have adjustable focus. The limitation is that you should position your microscope and then rotate the dial around the centre of the microscope to adjust the magnification range and hence the focussing at the same time. This really isn't a problem as we are not looking at cells which require a certain magnification first and then need to be focussed for clarify. All we need is a focussed image first at anywhere between 50 - 400 x magnification so it works well.

I agree that my magnifying lens could be better - I wasn't sure whether to invest £50 to £100 on a good one. Unless people know of good quality ones at cheaper prices. You really have to be looking straight down at the pieces in question to avoid any distortion. I'm coping so far, will see how it goes. What make do you use?

I would love to use the scopes and work directly from them, but I find it easier, as the picture shows, to work on the item through a lens and display the finished product - great for checking sanding / straightness and seeing bits of glue. It does make you really picky about your work, I'm still going back to my first cannon (mainly because I have the time till issues 3/4 turn up) but because there are little imperfections. Oh and that's before I've started painting.

As for painting it should work well, as long as you take it slowly - the updating of the image is quick, but not as quick as a wrong brush stroke. I'm currently trying to see how it works taking most of the painting tips from Capt Stedders - with things like highlighting etc.

I think it opens up a lot of possibilities and look forward to hear how you get on with it. Let me know if you have any questions / need any help with the set up. I'm hoping to expand my set up to an even more technical one as time goes by and will keep it updated.

Hi karl, I'm not sure about your particular model, though it seems to potentially be a 400 x digital zoom - obviously optical is what we really want. Not sure of the optical zoom. Will check out your build diary shortly and have a look.

Using a microscope may be a little OTT for modelling, I'm not sure. For me, I really like it, though I'm not a long time ship or anything modeller, so i'm just trying out as many gadgets as I can, and which seem to work for me. I'm glad to hear that it's something new and seems to be of interest to a number of people as well.

lol i dont know about over the top but its a must for me just to eliminate some of the eye strain will be good i am going to order it today
Allan

I look forward to seeing how you chaps get on with your Uber-zoom optics - my only concern is, as you say, the frame refresh rate, and the distance you can work from the item you are painting / assembling - anything less than 4" and I imagine that things get awkward (*imagines accidentally dabbing the lens with superglue... *Eeep!*)

If it works well, I may consider investing in such a set-up..

It varies quite a lot and depends on how the parts will be fitted and whether they will be sufficiently accessible to a brush later - as soon as things begin to start to look 'busy' it is a good time to stop assembling and start painting.

I also find it helps to split multi-part assemblies into sub-groups (Eg; The Cannon was split into Barrel, Carriage, and Wheels and axles groups) - that way you can assemble all the sub groups - paint them up and finally stick all the fully painted sub groups together to form a model Cannon that will look good from any angle - with no bits left unpainted or a bit bare looking.