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HMS Beagle, my first wooden model, warts and all Options
Tarbrush
#1 Posted : 15 April 2010 14:20:33

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Hail me hearties!BigGrin

Before casting off and setting sail, the story so far is: I started HMS Beagle some years ago without any knowledge of wooden models and subsequently abandoned her due to moving house and problems with the planking.Crying However having committed to HMS Victory part build, I found the "Planking for Beginners" tutorial and decided to resurrect HMS Beagle as a practice or "in between" project to increase my chances of making a better job of Victory. So the plan is to be 1 step ahead of Victory with Beagle.

I also hope that the following photographs will not give any one nightmares but some encouragement to other newbies by letting them know they are not on their own and there should be all the answers from the other helpfull shipmates on here.

She's a double planker, so twice the chances to screw up.BigGrin Actually I think you are suposed to make all your mistakes on the 1st ply, correct it with filler, and then make a better job of the 2nd ply and not need filler.Huh Laugh

So the first planking.......

{I'm sorry there is only an attachment so far, I will post actual pictures when I find out how. I can then add comments as we go. Watch this post, I WILL be back soon.LOL)
File Attachment(s):
HMSBeaglePlanking001.JPG (1,140kb) downloaded 174 time(s).
Tarbrush
#2 Posted : 19 April 2010 01:15:20

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Eureka. I have discovered what I was doing wrong in order to include actual photographs. Talk about short planks!Blushing


Kit box and state at point of build restart showing filler applied to poor primary planking

First 7 planks applied showing use of lancets for clamps

The lancets are supplied for diabetes blood checks by Roche Accu-check Softclix in packs of 200 obtainable from your chemist. They are very sharp.

I was not happy with the tapering of this planking an was starting to give problems at the bows. It was therefore decided to remove the 7 planks and start again.
This was done by soaking the planks with water plus a little washing up liquid to help the wetting. The planks were then eased off with the pack of a scalpel. The filler tended to come away with the planks.


Back to square one! The hull after planking removed. The filling needs to be redone.



The stern after planking removed showing the poor primary planking. More filler!!


Watch for the next post where I shall be attempting to follow the Planking for Beginners tutorial after filling and sanding back.
Tarbrush
#3 Posted : 26 April 2010 17:33:45

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The filling has been done and sanded back so we are now ready to start adding planking again.
The lines of the ribs have been pencilled in, and the position of the planking marked on each using a calibrated strip of cartridge paper. This is my method of determining the number of planks at each rib and subsequent tapering or drop planks required.
I cut some cartridge paper planks on a photo trimmer. These are the same width as the planks to be used (4mm) so they can be laid on and overlapped easily as the bows curve.
The resultant depth at the prow can now be measured and compared with that at rib 3.
5x4mm = 20mm at rib 3. At the prow the width is 10mm therefore each plank will have to be tapered to half width at the prow i.e.2mm. This is the maximum any plank should be tapered. (ref: Rules of Planking, Planking for Beginners)


I have not gone beyond 5 planks at this stage as the last one is starting to bulge on the lower edge as it bends giving the impression of clinker build. This means that some adjustment will need to be made on the following plank to correct this and will be covered in the next section after consulting "Planking for Beginners".
For the moment the actual planks will be tapered, bent and fixed.

I tried clamping the 5 planks between aluminium strips as a guide for tapering. This proved to tricky, so resorted to clamping them individually in a modelling vice with the forward end raised by 2mm so that it could be tapered to 4mm at the 3rd rib position. This being a straight taper. Only the top edge was tapered using a sanding block.
The planks were bent by wetting with water containing some washing-up liquid to speed up the process. Only the length to be severely bent was wetted, as the planks were flexible enough to accommodate the straighter side of the ship. The plank was then bent over the shaft of a hot soldering iron. (This was supplied via an earth monitoring device used for lawnmowers etc. If I did not have this I would have unplugged the iron before applying the damp plank, just to be safe!)

The 5 planks were all temporarily pinned on without glue to confirm the tapering and setting the bend. They were subsequently numbered, removed then glued back in their former order again being held with the lancets.

Watch this space to see the result and the next stepLOL
Tarbrush
#4 Posted : 17 May 2010 16:18:29

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Well me Hearties, things have been moving on a pace in the old dry dock. Planking has been re-applied and looks much better than the first attemptBigGrin.



"Owzat!" And not a bit of filler in sight (except on the other side) It really went quite well. Once I got going I couldn't put it down. So sorry there are no stage shots. The planks are 0.5 X 4.0 mm so quite easy to bend. After the calculation with the paper planks indicating I should reduce the widths to 2mm at the stem I marked them up and sanded them down individually in the modelling vice. I left the with at 4mm at the stern as they seemed to lay up quite well. Being so thin they did not need much in the way of soaking. After reducing the width I dribbled them with soap solution (Fairy Liquid in water) from a small syringe and put aside for a few minutes, then applied the PVA from another syringe to the back of the plank. (I shall have to give up the hard stuff. Running out of syringes!!Crying) Don't need it any more any way, now the builds going so wellBigGrin. The plank was then pinned in place with the lancets. The PVA I'm using holds in about 5 minutes so by the time the next plank is ready the lancets are moved over to hold the next plank and things proceed at quite a pace.

I found I had to adjust (increase) the length of the plank width reduction as I got lower because of the bowing at the sharpest part of the curve. This eliminated the tendency to emulate a clinker build!

Some may question planking one side at a time.Confused I found this easier as the model could be laid on it's side to facilitate the pinning of the planks. The keel and rib structure was very rigid and the 1st planking made it even more so. Therefore I was not worried about warping the model.Cool



The next shot looks a little like a streamlined Coronation class pacific loco.Confused



The stern could have been a little better, a little trimming required.



Now for the other side, which I hope will be better still.Cool
Watch this space.LOL
cliffweld
#5 Posted : 17 May 2010 16:36:20

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Looking good Tarbrush,what kind of clamps or pins are you using there and where can you get them,they look the business.
CURRENT BUILDS
HMS HALIFAX
HMS BOUNTY
LYDIA EVA(STEAM DRIFTER)
MANTUA COASTAL CANON
COREL VICTORY CROSS SECTION
TAMIYA 1/35 MATILDA MK 2
HACHETTE TIGER TANK
DRAGON 1/35 TIGER TANK
Tarbrush
#6 Posted : 17 May 2010 17:55:38

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Hi Cliff, the pins are lancets that are provided for my diabetic blood tester. They are b****y sharp and will not split the planks. The points are not over long for the thicker strakes though.
They can be obtained from the chemist in boxes of 200. I did post full details somewhere on this siteConfused let me know if you, like me can't find it, and I will repeat it here. Not sure of the cost as the NHS kindly supply them for me. I would not think that they would cost more than 1p each. The only snag is that the points do bend if one is not careful. If you have a diabetic friend who will pass used ones on be very careful unless you steralise them first.LOL
cliffweld
#7 Posted : 17 May 2010 18:14:55

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Location: dingwall,highlands of scotland
Thanks for that,i'll check out the local chemists.
CURRENT BUILDS
HMS HALIFAX
HMS BOUNTY
LYDIA EVA(STEAM DRIFTER)
MANTUA COASTAL CANON
COREL VICTORY CROSS SECTION
TAMIYA 1/35 MATILDA MK 2
HACHETTE TIGER TANK
DRAGON 1/35 TIGER TANK
budgie
#8 Posted : 23 May 2010 14:39:23

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Laugh found my 1st in corner of shed been there bout a year
Tarbrush
#9 Posted : 27 May 2010 11:37:13

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Location: Nr. Dartford,
Ahoy Budgie,
That superstructure will never look right on that hull.Confused Looks like she is something sleek like a clipper:Cutty Sark?Drool What made you mothball her? If that was your first you were doing very much better than me, particularly since she is single planked or is that just the primary. It doesn't look like much Polyfiller will be required.Crying Are you going to take her up again or are you into the faster ladies now, you obviously like 'em sleek?LOL
By the way stick to their tea, it helps with steadier hands and vision!!BigGrin
Must get the next batch of pics of Beagle up but can't put her down to pick up the camera.Drool
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