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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2010 Posts: 66 Points: 191 Location: Britannia
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Thought I would get into the spirit of things and start my own build diary. My first wooden ship so very much a steep learning curve for me in how to use wood and metal. My first observations were that: a) Taking pictures in a macro setting show every flaw in the paintwork which the naked eye would usually miss ! b) Getting used to the Acrylic paint and its consistency, this first effort was far too loaded with paint will learn for the next time. c) My thanks to Capt Stedders and his Green Stuff. I used it for the first time, interesting material which is quite tricky to get how you want it. Macmedal attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2010 Posts: 491 Points: 1,460 Location: Poole
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A good start.  Glad to have been of help. I agree that gs is quite 'different' when you first try using it - rolling into suitably sized thicknesses and cutting the right amount that you need off said roll is a skill that you will soon get used to. Also, don't forget to use spit to lubricate your tools and stop them sticking to fresh gs. (you could try vaseline (actually a lot better than spit, but you need to get rid of every last trace of it before using paint). If you can bear with me, I am doing a special painting (and detailing) guide for the carronade which may be of help in getting a super-smooth finish, (it would normally be sooner, but its a little more complex than the cannon). I hope to get it posted by around lunchtime on Saturday in the brushworks thread*. Generally, I find that a lot of people try to get coverage in a single coat of paint and don't thin the paint down enough. A very common mistake. What brand of acrylics are you using? Did you prime the cannon first? As far as Macro photography goes, yes, it can be very unforgiving - but it helps considerably in forcing you to see what you can do better next time and, considering that the cannon in the above pic is highly magnified, especially on a 21" monitor, I'd say it wasn't too bad at all. Schnellboots on back burner
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/03/2010 Posts: 270 Points: 837 Location: Nr. Dartford,
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I think it looks quite authentic, after all the castings were not that smooth were they? Or, have I been looking at rusty guns that have been subsequently painted? 
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2010 Posts: 66 Points: 191 Location: Britannia
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I am using Admiralty Acrylic Paints I find them a little too thick so I have experimented in thinning them down a bit.
Looking forward to your update on the Carronade.
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
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All sea going cannon of that period suffered from rust and the gunner and his mates were constantly chipping it off and repainting. The problem with replica guns made of fibreglass is that they do have a smooth plastic kit appearance which is noticeable in the carronade photographs from Victory. I will certainly not be going for the ultra-smooth look as and when I get a carronade to play with(sorry build!).
Mike T
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/03/2010 Posts: 270 Points: 837 Location: Nr. Dartford,
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I do get some things right then Mike. 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2010 Posts: 491 Points: 1,460 Location: Poole
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Food for thought... a) It's a 1/84th scale DISPLAY model you are building. Do you want people to see it and think that you've painted it with coloured Ready Brek? Hmmm? b) Its a question of scale - even heavily chipped paint at such a small scale will, from a distance, appear quite smooth and even. There are certain advanced techniques that can be employed to give a realistically weathered finish, but unless you want to devote the rest of your life to this build, I would avoid the hassle and go for a nice display finish. c) Lumpy, rough paintwork looks exactly like what it is - lumpy, rough paintwork. I'd like to emphasise that I'm not being a snob here, or trying to stifle your creative flow, I'm just trying to help you avoid some ugly and expensive mistakes. Edit: Just read this post again and, just in case there is any confusion, I'd like to make it clear that the above comments were merely made to make you (and anyone else reading this thread) think about how they want to finish their model and were, in no way, a criticism of your cannon. Schnellboots on back burner
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2010 Posts: 66 Points: 191 Location: Britannia
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I agree given the choice I would rather have a smooth paint finish, this was a first effort and short of taking all the paint off and doing it again (life's too short), I am putting it down to experience and a lesson learnt.
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its easy to forget when you look at the photo how small the actual thing is. I think you have packed masses of detail in and it looks good. I am usingthe same paint it is very thick i have found four parts paint to one part water looks good but you will need at least 2-3 coats however it is dry very quickly I will be weathering my victory in my mind she will be under gun drill prior to engaging the french. if you do want an authentic uneaven rust look try a tiny amount of backing powder in the paint. i wouldent recoment it for the cannons but i am thinking of using it on the ruder hinges etc anyhow love what you have done “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2010 Posts: 66 Points: 191 Location: Britannia
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Cheers Jase
I will definitely be thinning the Admiral paint for the Carronade and see how it goes.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2010 Posts: 66 Points: 191 Location: Britannia
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I have been working on the anchor. I used copper strip for the banding on the stock instead of thread. After puddening the original ring I decided it was too small and out of scale, so using copper wire I made a new ring using the dimensions from Mckays book. I am happy with the anchor itself, the puddening is alright, but I think I went a little OTT with the white seizings, but enough is enough for the time being I need to move on to the carronade. I will post better photos soon. Macmedal attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2010 Posts: 491 Points: 1,460 Location: Poole
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Very tidy. Nice, tight job on the banding too. The black paint is also nice and smooth. Schnellboots on back burner
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Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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let me add to stedders comments, perfect.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2010 Posts: 66 Points: 191 Location: Britannia
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Cheers for the encouragement. I am learning a lot from this forum as I go along !!
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2010 Posts: 66 Points: 191 Location: Britannia
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Carronade is still work in progress. So far I have adapted the position of eyebolts, and made new vertical side bolts from copper strip. I added a thimble and sight and also adapted the pivot. The wheels were also out of scale so I trimmed down the brass housing and replaced the wheels with smaller wheels and the four bolt plates were made out of more copper strip. I need to touch up a couple of areas and then work on the tackle and breeching rope. But again I need to replace the blocks as they seem out of scale. Macmedal attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/03/2010 Posts: 600 Points: 1,959 Location: Solway West Cumbria
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Impressive...the overall look is nice, clean and sharp...
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Rank: Vice-Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2010 Posts: 507 Points: 1,571
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Wow that carronade in very impressive mac
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good job matey “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2010 Posts: 491 Points: 1,460 Location: Poole
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Some sweet detailing to the Carronade and a nice, smooth finish to the paint. My only critique being that your image is back-lit, thus making certain elements harder to make out - but that's only a small niggle, well done! Schnellboots on back burner
Tools.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2010 Posts: 66 Points: 191 Location: Britannia
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Launch planked and sanded (it has been cut off jig) now waiting for more instructions before I get too ahead of myself and miss something. I found it just as hard as I expected it to be, will be painting in Trafalgar colours. Macmedal attached the following image(s):
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