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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/04/2010 Posts: 58 Points: 133 Location: Newcastle uk
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Hi all I have opted to go for the Natural Finish on my HMS Victory , In doing that i have decided to replace all the Cannons and the Carronades with Brass . Does anyone else who is going for the natural look agree , De Agostini should give modellers a choice when on Subscription of being supplied with Brass or Black Painted Cannons. I have worked it out that it will cost me an Extra £50 to replace all the cannons . By the way i will eventual offer the black ones to other Modellers ,For a Small charge , So i can recover some of my costs . 
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2010 Posts: 491 Points: 1,460 Location: Poole
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I am also going for a natural wood finish, but since the cannon were made of iron, I feel it better represents the actual materials used on the real ship to have them in a black finish - Unless, of course the real material happens to be brass - in which case I'd want a brass finish. Schnellboots on back burner
Tools.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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I'm with Stedders on that one .. all metal will be in black .. but I'll keep as much wood as I can in it's natural state. No rights or wrongs there though.
-=A
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I see both sides of this if you are going to have a painted finish then everything should be painted, but if you are going for showing of the material why would you want some elemnts painted? why not show of the metals as well as the wood in which case brass will elevate the feel and class of the model. idea for some of your black cannons you could creat a nice detail on your stand with them. “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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I choose to paint the canon primarily because the canon weren't made of shiney brass, which to my eye at least doesn't look right... to put that in perspective non of the wood will be shiny either. I use tung oil very thinly to protect the wood but it has more of a matt finish or semi gloss at most when done.
Ideally as in another thread I'd use ebony and bass wood on this one .. but I'm doing that on another model of the Victory that I truely think will take years (5-10) to complete. So on this one my choice is a natural wood finish, paint anything black that was iron. No sails as I don't care for how they end up looking .. and hopefully end up with something aesthetically pleasing.
It is all; at the end of the day about the pleasure of building the model the way the model maker chooses to though. The real joy comes out of seeing one piece completed then another for me .. once I've finished a model I give it away mostly.
-=A
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/04/2010 Posts: 58 Points: 133 Location: Newcastle uk
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Thanks for the idea about using some of my Black Cannons for a display on my Stand , I might paint a couple of them up so you can see what they would look like on the Actual ship .
Cheers Jase
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 Rank: Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
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 hi all having not recieved issue with carronade yet i woz wondering if it would be possible to cut a thread on the projectory adjuster by using a nut (dont have tap& die set)or is the material too delicate cheers
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Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/01/2010 Posts: 459 Points: 1,367 Location: Bridlington
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budgie wrote: hi all having not recieved issue with carronade yet i woz wondering if it would be possible to cut a thread on the projectory adjuster by using a nut (dont have tap& die set)or is the material too delicate cheers Hi Welcome, if you did put a working adjuster the bolt would after be smaller than a 12bA BOLT, Regards
Rob
Bridlington.
Built Flying Scotsman (Train). Collecting HMS VICTORY
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
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hudsonrobert49 wrote:budgie wrote: hi all having not recieved issue with carronade yet i woz wondering if it would be possible to cut a thread on the projectory adjuster by using a nut (dont have tap& die set)or is the material too delicate cheers (simulate thread on shaft) Hi Welcome, if you did put a working adjuster the bolt would after be smaller than a 12bA BOLT,
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 Rank: Super-Elite     Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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Budgie, I have a needle here that needs drilling,so if you drill my needle I will thread the adjuster  no serously the metal is very soft and if you did find a nut small enough .75mm it would break, so why not thread a piece of brass wire or go cpt.stedders way and paint the thread on bsf of course(british standard fine) Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
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karl1113 wrote:Budgie, I have a needle here that needs drilling,so if you drill my needle I will thread the adjuster no serously the metal is very soft and if you did find a nut small enough .75mm it would break, so why not thread a piece of brass wire or go cpt.stedders way and paint the thread on bsf of course(british standard fine)  yeh postman delivered the issues ten minutes after after i posted that daft question carronade not as stubbie as i thought looking at pictures of real thing hey ho look out for more silly Qs ps following ure biuld lookin good Karl (the model not you haha)
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