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 Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/04/2012 Posts: 22 Points: 56
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I am at the point where Im starting to fix the decks prior to setting the hull. I have the pin pusher which was supplied with the free took kit but have no pins - should I have been supplied with them or do I have to source them myself.
If I need to source them please could someone suggest what I need to order
Thanks in advance
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 Rank: Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2010 Posts: 2,065 Points: 6,295 Location: Gorleston-on-sea
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Hi steviegio...I believe you should have received some nails with issue 17 and again with issue 20?  Current Builds: Deagostini HMS Victory: Deagostini HMS Sovereign of the seas. Completed Builds: Del Prado: HMAS Bounty: Hachette: RMS Titanic: Del Prado: Cutty Sark...
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi steviegio!  The first pack of pins are supplied in issue 20, Yes it's mad! when in issue 17 you're told to pin the deck. You will find that you don't always get the parts needed in the right order mate. If you can't wait until then you will need 10mm brass pins, you can get standard or very fine pins, here is a link:- http://www.cornwallmodel...atalog/amati_nails.html
Hope this helps Darron
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 Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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hi steviegio,when you get the brass pins,be very careful when using the pin pusher,I would recommend drilling the deck first,I use a dress making pin with the head cut off,and the cut part as the cutting end of the pin,I also marrked the deck by drawing lines between the ribs and drill the deck outside the boat.good luck,and it never hurts to have too many brass pins. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/08/2010 Posts: 152 Points: 467
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PINS if you like me you will end up with loads of spare pins , If you double plank take all of the pins out of the first layer , Then when second planking , remove every other pin cut the heads of the rest and level them off. I would definitely recommend double planking , Secondary plank in walnut if you want to have a Museum quality . Hope this helps .
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 Ok pins with a bit of practice with a pin pusher u can insert the pins half way this will still hold the plank ect in place but still allow the easy withdrawal of the pin.Try not to be to heavy handed as this can mark the plank but this can be rectified by using steam [with caution] on the affected area,hope this helps regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/04/2012 Posts: 22 Points: 56
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Many thanks everyone for your help. It does seem I may be missing parts. I should have also received a couple more canons so far but only received one in issue one.
When pinning the deck did you just use the pins to hold temporarily - in the pictures it does look like they are permanently inserted. I may have to nail as a couple of the decks are banana shaped and although they straighten after soaking and pressing they return to being bowed once dried out. Ah well.
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2011 Posts: 865 Points: 2,410 Location: Cambs
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as far as pinning the decks goes, it does not really matter if they are pinned permanently or not, just as long as the decks are held firmly in place, use any weights you can find, bean tins etc, its more important that the decks make good contact with all the deck supports. if you leave the pins in it should not make any difference as the decks you are working on will be covered up , even the little bit of decking that gets planked can hardly be seen. Come on you Jimmies
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/10/2010 Posts: 689 Points: 2,130 Location: Dorset
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The Victory is my second build the first being The Bismark. I must admit the scale and build of the Vistory does present different challanges. When it came to fitting the deck planking I avoided using the pins mainly because of the problems of marking or splitting the planking. My solution to the problem was to construct a number of pegs from some of the planking material (I found their was plenty provided) Some are the thickness of the planking and some double size. I used these to hold the plank firmly to the cross beams and to the adjacant plank. Just be a little careful not to add too much glue to the plank as you dont want to glue the pegg as well. Worked for me. You must need to pine the final planking as you get close to the hull. As they say a picture speaks a thousand words GilShapley attached the following image(s): Current Build:-
[color=blue]Stash Avro Lancaster (Full Kit)plus some extra issues I picked up at a good price
[color=blue]Built:- Norman Catapult by Mantua,Roman Catapult by Mantua,HMS Victory,HMS Victory XSection,Focker DB1,Bismark,English Carronade Titanic Lifeboat,American Civil War Gatling,Hummer,Sopwith Camel F1,Occre Jupiter ,OcCre Wagon, Latina Arab Dhow, Eaglemass Orrery OcCre Rogers 119 [color=red][color=red]RB7,OcCre Missippi River Boat, Model Airways Fokker DR1
OcCre London L>C>C 106 Ugears Scrambler, Ugears Hexapod Explorer UGears Off-Road Vehicle
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