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karl1113 wrote:gandale,you have Identified the prob.now fix it  yes we were lucky,reduce the rib so it is the same as (b)prob solved,when I said lucky it meant that if the part rib was smaller then we would have added by filling in,I know some you will say send it back,and it should not have been like that in the first place,but we are all human,machines don't make mistakes,only the humans who operate them.this is not a problem,I have checked for alignment all is ok.this is what the forum is for,solving problems and fixing them.good luck.what i did was to file off the top edge of the joint on 13a. and when I fitted 13b. I pushed it into the top of the joint as my flange on 13 b was was slightly too small for the joint,and pushed a piece of scrap into the joint. Karl, thanks for the update on your fix... have double checked mine and found my 13b fits perfectly... the first image I posted shows everything aligned with 13a being the back piece... filing the lower flange on 13a for my build I believe will correct the fault.... Thanks again, you are a star.... 
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Would also advise builders to check the distance between each deck especially on parts 13a and 13b in relation to other ribs... i have a slight difference between the first and second deck, about half a mm.... Seriously thinking of just getting a replacement from the newsagents but am concerned I will pick up another faulty part...
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Decided to press ahead with my anchor... am pretty pleased with the texture and the grain of the wood showing though... Stock was stained with Walnut satin and dabbed with tissue to get the texture... may yet do something with the ring, will wait and see... here are the pics as promised.... Gandale attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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def different,the ring needs to be a bit larger I think?also the ring has binding it's called puddening.if you want a scale like anchor. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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karl1113 wrote:def different,the ring needs to be a bit larger I think?also the ring has binding it's called puddening.if you want a scale like anchor. Thanks Karl, thought I had aged it quite well but hey, that's why I am here, to try and learn especially from mistakes.... will have a look at puddening and see how it is done.... appreciate the comments ......
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hi, Son of Bulwark does a great tutorial on how he build the anchors for his victory - page 1 post 17 http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=1060
Hope this helps M
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Contacted Customer Services today in relation to the faulty part no 13... Gave it some thought and decided as this is my very first build where no doubt I will make a lot of mistakes, I would at least refrain from adding to them wherever possible.... Have to say CS were very good, took my details and without quibble said they would send me a replacement issue. Shame it will take up to 28 days to arrive so will not be gluing any more ribs onto the keep until it gets here.... will dry fit only....
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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Hi GD, I am only storing the ribs flat in my tile sandwich untill I have all the ribs and all the keel, then I will assemble all the parts on my dry dock,so 28 days will cover the time for all these parts to come together  Regards Mike MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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MWG wrote:Hi GD, I am only storing the ribs flat in my tile sandwich untill I have all the ribs and all the keel, then I will assemble all the parts on my dry dock,so 28 days will cover the time for all these parts to come together Regards Mike Thanks Mike... I may be enthusiatic about the build I have taken on but at the same time I am in no rush to see it completed....as they say, you learn by your mistakes and I am learning from mine with the help of experienced modellers like yourself... thanks again...
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Yesterday and today I cleaned all the ash off of the bow formers part 12, glued and fitted ensuring everything was square.... carried on with the balsa infills on the bow section and left to dry. Then using a file and sanding block started shaping the balsa infills, only have to fill indentations with wood filler and finally sand smooth... That maybe a task for tomorrow..... Just for the record, ribs 13 and 15 have been dry fitted only, will not be gluing in place until new rib 13 arrives.... Here she is so far...... Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Have decided to wait a while before I start fairing the hull. It looks a little daunting and having never done it before i would prefer to wait until I have all the balsa infills in place as I think that would be a great help... Plus it gives me a bit more time to see how others are done and hopefully follow their guidance...
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Issue 5 arrived and all looks well.. carefully cut all the parts out of their framing and got work cleaning all the loose ash from the fittings using a fine file and emery board... Happy to say all the parts fit together this time... Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Tried a dry fit of the new keel piece and found it was slightly out of line... closer inspection of the new keel piece showed it was so slightly warped, resulting in a dip in water for a few minutes. While the keel piece was soaking I glued in place parts 16a and 16b to make up the rib... The wet keel and the rib were now placed into my makeshift press where it will stay for a while.... Gandale attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2010 Posts: 2,065 Points: 6,295 Location: Gorleston-on-sea
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She is looking really great...And good job done with the balsa on the bow... Current Builds: Deagostini HMS Victory: Deagostini HMS Sovereign of the seas. Completed Builds: Del Prado: HMAS Bounty: Hachette: RMS Titanic: Del Prado: Cutty Sark...
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jonny7england wrote:She is looking really great...And good job done with the balsa on the bow... Thanks for the encouraging comments my friend.. am really enjoying the build.. Have also scrapped the anchor and started again.. a lot happier with how that is going and will post when finished....
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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Hi GD, spot on with the balsa infills glad to see you are going to use the wood filler, better to use two thin coats sanding between both, than one thick coat of filler Regards Mike MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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MWG wrote:Hi GD, spot on with the balsa infills glad to see you are going to use the wood filler, better to use two thin coats sanding between both, than one thick coat of filler Regards Mike Thanks Mike, my intention is to leave the wood filling and sanding until I get to the stage where I need to carry out the fairing... a task I fully intend to take my time with... appreciate your guidance...
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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Gandale wrote:MWG wrote:Hi GD, spot on with the balsa infills glad to see you are going to use the wood filler, better to use two thin coats sanding between both, than one thick coat of filler Regards Mike Thanks Mike, my intention is to leave the wood filling and sanding until I get to the stage where I need to carry out the fairing... a task I fully intend to take my time with... appreciate your guidance... Hi GD, you can tell me to mind my own business, but is easier to fair the bow rib while it is off the ship,when it has been fitted with Balsa infills Regards Mike MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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MWG wrote:Gandale wrote:MWG wrote:Hi GD, spot on with the balsa infills glad to see you are going to use the wood filler, better to use two thin coats sanding between both, than one thick coat of filler Regards Mike Thanks Mike, my intention is to leave the wood filling and sanding until I get to the stage where I need to carry out the fairing... a task I fully intend to take my time with... appreciate your guidance... Hi GD, you can tell me to mind my own business, but is easier to fair the bow rib while it is off the ship,when it has been fitted with Balsa infills Regards Mike Would never tell you to mind your own business Mike, you are very much one of my guides... don't think I would get through this build without the likes of you and the people on this forum... maybe the fairing just concerns me a bit.... will have a look and perhaps take courage into my hands.... Forgot to mention, my bow is now glued in place so to start the fairing now may mean having to remove from the jig.... another learning point for me so it may be best now for me to wait until hull is set and decks are in place before removing it and starting the planking..... must say though, this is so enjoyable and thanks for your input......
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Decided my earlier attempt at my anchor was not up to scratch and made a number of mistakes during its construction... Threw the stock away and created a new stock from scratch. Replaced the ring with a larger one made from brass wire wrapped round a 12mm drill bit... Applied the puddening to the ring using rigging thread and painted it black... finally added the white bands using normal sewing thread.... Intend purchasing 1mm brass rod, inserting it into predrilled holes in the stock to represent fixing pins... Feel this is a much better attempt.... Gandale attached the following image(s):
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