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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/09/2009 Posts: 138 Points: 422 Location: Surrey
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Looking at Tomick's build, you have to be careful not to get glue on parts number 3 (near the bow) as these parts are removed after planking. Give them a good rubbing with candle wax will stop any stray glue accidentally gluing them into the launch. Alternatively, put a small piece of Cellotape over them to stop the glue sticking.
Cheers Mark
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/03/2010 Posts: 600 Points: 1,959 Location: Solway West Cumbria
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Cool tip ...thanks Mark
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good tip thanks. question if i do get glue on somthing i should not can i get it off? “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.” -Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/05/2010 Posts: 236 Points: 808 Location: Manchester
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lol yeah sounds like me. i'll need an answer to that 1 as well. i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2010 Posts: 491 Points: 1,460 Location: Poole
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Mark wrote:Looking at Tomick's build, you have to be careful not to get glue on parts number 3 (near the bow) as these parts are removed after planking. Give them a good rubbing with candle wax will stop any stray glue accidentally gluing them into the launch. Alternatively, put a small piece of Cellotape over them to stop the glue sticking.
Cheers Mark Good advice, although I'd be wary of using candlewax if I intended to paint the model afterward (Paint is reluctant to stick to waxed surfaces and you'll have a hell of a time trying to remove traces of wax from such a fiddly area) As for the sellotape, this is a safer bet, although you will have to allow for the thickness when contouring the bow. The best bet is to avoid getting glue on the areas that you shouldn't in the first place. In the worst case scenario (Eg: you have glued the top of parts 3 to the bow former AND planks to the aforementioned bits) wait until you have removed the planked launch from the jig and using either a Dremel (very carefully) or a combination of EXTREME CARE, knife, and curved rifflers / needle files, remove the offending bits. The main worry in such circumstances is the very thin planking - one false move and you'll be making nasty holes in your planking, so my suggestion would be to leave a little of the part 3 formers still attached to the hull - slightly messy, but much better than a gaping hole. Schnellboots on back burner
Tools.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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i use candle wax on the corner of my build table about a foot square and clamp parts glued to geather never had problems painting after words
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/09/2009 Posts: 138 Points: 422 Location: Surrey
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jase wrote:good tip thanks. question if i do get glue on somthing i should not can i get it off? Assuming you're using PVA, it's best to wipe it off with a damp cloth while it's still wet. Alternatively, a very sharp knife and you should be able to get dried glue off. As others have said, the planking is very thin, so go careful. Dried PVA is slightly rubbery, which is why it doesn't sand well. Sandpaper or a Dremel tool might not work very well. They should be fine (but go careful with the Dremel, they can be a bit brutal) if you're using Alaphatic resin.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
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Mark wrote:jase wrote:good tip thanks. question if i do get glue on somthing i should not can i get it off? Assuming you're using PVA, it's best to wipe it off with a damp cloth while it's still wet. Just to remind members who are planking their launch, Tomick recommends thick super glue rather than PVA glues for attaching the planking along the ribs. I am assuming that Super Glue Remover will soften a joint if necessary, what do others think? Mike T
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Superglue Gel works a treat for the Launch planking, you might find PVA tricky to use when it comes to holding what are fragile planks in place, and also because the planking is very thin, too much PVA can warp thin planking as it dries, you could also consider a stringless contact adhesive when applying thin strips.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hi shipmates! Have you tried cling film instead of cellotape much thinner and fits to the shape better. If the glue sticks to the film it just takes a little rub to remove it!.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/04/2010 Posts: 52 Points: 167 Location: Scotland
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Great tip Son of Bulwark, used cling film to protect parts of Bismarck whilst building her
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