Hi db
Im afraid its bad news so far as the formers go but there is a way round it. This problem with the hull formers has been pointed out before basicly you are sent two former '8's [one of mine was warped so I didn't use it] instead of a set of '7' and '8' former '7'[the one without the tabs] is sent out the month after or something like that. So the removal of the tabs has meant you have used a former no '8' as a former '7' this has caused the bowing out of the hull at this point.
The resolution to this is to fit the ply decking and fill the gaps with filler and when you come to placing the decking this will be covered by the wood strip decking. Just plank the deck as normal from the central line outwards and after the decks placed you wont notice the bulge so to speak. Hope this helps
regards
Andy

Hi db
When I was at the stage your at I followed Mr T's build diary and attached the ply decks to the hull then I planked the deck directly onto the hull, I preferred doing it this way to the download instructions method it also means that the planking goes over to the edges of the hull strakes this way and leaves a tidier edge ,it also stops the gaps that some people get that needs to be filled around monthly issue 19. I did deviate here from the build and placed a built up edge as per information in J Skulski's Battleship Yamato book but planking just to the edge is fine.
As for recommending a good filler green puttys fine for the smaller gaps but I would use something along the lines of Ronseal's wood filler there's a two part 1 like a car body filler type or the squeezy bottle type where its ready mixed either will be fine as for colour I ussaly go for the 'natural pine' as it takes colour quite well not that you will be dyeing this filler,also there are some cheaper brands on the market but iv found from experience that that can be very grity and hard to get a smooth finish unlike the Ronseal products that sand back smooth. Hope this is of help
regards
Andy