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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Hi everyone, i tried to post some pics of my coppered hull yesterday but failed - it was in the build diary section, then i was unable to login, couldnt even have a new password as the security question didnt respond either. So, a new account it was! I have just weathered half of my victory hull and was wondering what others think, you can be honest as sometimes i look at it and dodnt like it, and sometimes i love it so really dont know what to do - my wife hates it and prefers the shiny side. I dont have a problem with redoing it all if i end up deciding i dont like it at all. Please let me know  
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Thankyou for that opinion, i understand what you mean about the paintwork being weathered as well, i was planning some subtle weathering above the waterline, dark wash over the yellow parts and deck done with a 50/50 of "weather it" which i have used before with good results. Steve
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 Rank: Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2011 Posts: 2,239 Points: 6,837 Location: East Sussex
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Hi Stevie_o, I can see you have made a great job,but as Dominic said,you have got to decide which to go, I'm going for the shiny look and keeping the top part as new,saves a lot of work. Regards Trev. Work in progress: Tombstone (Scratch) - San Francisco 2. -The Mayflower ( scratch by plan).
OcCre- Santa-Maria (Kit).
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Hi Stevie. I love that copper weathering! I would go with that look definately. My own copper bottom (my Victory's actually!) was made with the self adhesive copper foil tape and I'm just letting it oxidise naturally until it reaches a good stage and then I'll seal it, it's already far more subdued than the 'new shiny look' but yours looks fantastic. As for having to weather the upper parts, don't forget, if the ship was going to be in a naval revue or inspection the crew would give her a good coat of paint to smarten her up, but they wouldn't always have the opportunity to dry dock her! Even a careened hull would still be composed of weathered copper and if the new plates had been in storage for any length of time even they wouldn't be all that shiny. Go with what you've done, it's the most realistic look I've ever seen! Happy Building Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Hi Thankyou both for your comments, like i said i wasnt going to go mad with weathering above the waterline, i want a fairly clean look, i just didnt want to wait for the copper to darken naturally so i used "patina-it" and left it ovenight then stopped further action with a wash and a matt laquuer. I know the effect will look better when the paint is finally done as well, i just cant trust my own judgement so i had to ask on here ;-)
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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/01/2012 Posts: 605 Points: 1,630 Location: Bucks
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I think it looks spot on . I would keep it  . HMS Surprise HMS Snake HMS Bounty HMS Royal Caroline HMS Victory rebuild HMS Supply
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Thankyou - heres another shot in daylight 
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 Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2012 Posts: 28 Points: 84 Location: Netherlands
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Stevie_o. I like it very much. I used on my Victory self adhasive copper tape. It is still shiny. But I like to present my Victory in a realistic way. Also with a lot of figurines on it. I was still doubting to weather to copper or not. But seeing your foto's I think I will weather it like yours. It is very realistic. Thanks. Jan Zwart. Current build: HMS Victory Already built: Half moon, Stadt Bremen.
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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thankyou Jan, I also used copper tape for this effect, thats why i dont mind pulling it off if i decide to as there is no glue to worry about and it didnt cost much. BTW you will need 2 rolls of 34 yards for the vic.
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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Nice work  . I like the effect, I'm planning to patina the tiles for the X-Section, as it looks a lot less 'Toy' like. What did you use? I've used both Patina-It and a homemade concoction of Vinegar and Salt. I also agree Weather-It is a great way to age wood and I'm going to use it on my X-Section external wood as well.
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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yes Dominic, def copper tape and a pounce wheel, no glue mess either! @Andy - its patina-it painted on with a brush, and re-applied after a couple of hours then left overnight. It was very blue after a night so i toned it down but rubbing with a stiff brush then matt laquering to stop further corrosion.
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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/05/2010 Posts: 233 Points: 708 Location: Leigh on Sea
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I like the weatherd look ...any advice on tape supplier..ie where to buy H.M.S Victory H.M.S Victory X Section H.M.S Surprise under the bench D-51
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Hi Got mine on ebay but you can buy in most craft places, think its used for stained glass art, mine was 7/32 wide by 34 yards a roll and you will need 2. You dont need to cut it to individual tiles you can work with 5 or 6 inch strips and mark on around 8 tiles per strip.
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/01/2011 Posts: 206 Points: 614 Location: halifax
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hi steve-o looks amazing does that def one for keeping going to go down the copper tape route myself now ive seen ur handy work any tips on applying it & using the pounce wheel.. thx cal
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very nice  gives the old girl a real busness like look!! “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.” -Mark Twain
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 Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/02/2013 Posts: 31 Points: 23 Location: Pershore
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stevie_o wrote:Hi everyone, i tried to post some pics of my coppered hull yesterday but failed - it was in the build diary section, then i was unable to login, couldnt even have a new password as the security question didnt respond either. So, a new account it was! I have just weathered half of my victory hull and was wondering what others think, you can be honest as sometimes i look at it and dodnt like it, and sometimes i love it so really dont know what to do - my wife hates it and prefers the shiny side. I dont have a problem with redoing it all if i end up deciding i dont like it at all. Please let me know   hi steve great job on the plating are these the deagostini hms victory plates
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Hi Thanks Jase, Cal, Michal - For those asking by PM or here this is a quick "how to" for the copper strip used. This is the one i used and 1.5 rolls were required at about 7.50 ish a roll.  The pounce wheel used looked like this and leaves a nail mark at around every 2mm.  Measure around 5inches of copper tape for each piece, you dont want these too long or they become difficult to handle with the backing tape off, you may also need to cut down to single tiles for the more tricky areas. Thats a narrow 6inch rule in the pic BTW.  With the rule about 1.5-2mm from one edge roll the pounce wheel down the backing paper side of the strip - I used balsa as a base as it gave a deeper impression, but if you like a less defined impression then a cutting mat will do this, a hardwood surface will give the smallest nail impression.  I then used the pounce to create each tile using the rules width as a tile size for speed, much faster than measuring, this will create about 7 or 8 tiles per strip.  Lay the strips in the same way as the normal tiles in brick like fasion, the copper tape is very sticky and will stick fine to bare wood - no need to prime or paint first, it also can be peeled off if you make a mistake, very easy to trim too, i found it best to size and cut each piece with the backing still on the tape. When all done i used patina it to get the blue/green colour, looks much nicer for real than on the pics too. Then left overnight. Next day you can rub or brush off any unwanted patina to give the effect you want and when happy i used a matt clear water based laquer to seal it. Hope all this helps!  Heres a final pic since doing the rudder 
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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/01/2012 Posts: 605 Points: 1,630 Location: Bucks
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I reckon that is a stonker of weathering. It really brings a lot of character to the hull and sets the whole ship off. Very nice and neat HMS Surprise HMS Snake HMS Bounty HMS Royal Caroline HMS Victory rebuild HMS Supply
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Brilliant work Stevie! I wondered what the pounce wheel was, I did mine with the same copper tape but in smaller length rolls off ebay (thats why I used six of the things!) and instead of the pounce wheel I used a circular saw disk from the dremel-like rotary tool set. Very similar result but I'm definately thinking about that patina! Best of luck Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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 Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/08/2010 Posts: 35 Points: 110 Location: Now in Berlin, Germany
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WoW! Breathtaking. I am following mag for mag but hesitated about tiles as it seems very tricky to get it perfect, a lot of comments about glue on tiles etc. THIS here is mindblowing. I wasn't sure how to progress as I fear that copper painting still would show wood structure / planking structure. I like on top the weathered appearance as shiny copper could be very dominant.........so, you just convinced me to go this route. If you have some more pics as you worked on hull, do me a favour and upload them as any visual help will be very much appreciated. It's my first build - my abonnement is complete (yeah, wait on pieces for cutout part of mag 120)...and be on mag 45 just now. So, your weathered copper pics are coming along at the very best timing! Thanks & well done, Stefan
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