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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/05/2011 Posts: 766 Points: 2,128 Location: Dagenham
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Not really much to show so far. I've built the main bits and primed them ready for paint I've left the wheels in the fret as they are easier to spray and it won't make a difference to the end result. This is my first armour build so il be doing it straight from the box. Comments welcome CURRENT BUILDS
Mclaren MP4-23 Ford 1/12 Shelby Mustang GT500 2010 HMS Pandora
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Great start. And a good way to paint, its how I go about it. What camo scheme are you doing?
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/05/2011 Posts: 766 Points: 2,128 Location: Dagenham
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Cheers nem. To be honest I'm not really sure yet and I'm open to suggestions. CURRENT BUILDS
Mclaren MP4-23 Ford 1/12 Shelby Mustang GT500 2010 HMS Pandora
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Being a mid it would be dark yellow Tamiya XF-60 base colour, then you can add red brown XF-64 and dark green XF-61. Loads to choose from. Do some research and you will find some excellent camo. Or you can go winter scheme and do a white wash?? I am sure whatever you choose it will look superb!!
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2012 Posts: 104 Points: 312 Location: Brome Lake Quebec
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S2ksean
Good to see you getting stuck into this build. I know that everyone has their preference but I like to assemble as much as possible before priming and painting for two reasons. Firstly it becomes harder to glue pieces together when they are already primed, particularly if you have to make any adjustments or fill in any seams etc. Secondly if you paint early then you will be handling painted pieces that can give rise to damage to the paint finish as you work on them further.
Particularly with the wheels for instance. You may well want to sand down the edges after the pieces are assembled and this will require another coat of primer.
Just remember that first and foremost this is your build and if you obtain the results you are looking for then your method is working. If not, and only then, you may want to try someone else's tips.
Keep it going. John
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/02/2012 Posts: 61 Points: 186 Location: N. Wales
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Nice to see another beginner S2ksean. On my Matilda build, i've taken the parts off the sprues and cleaned them up first. May be relevant to S2ksean. There's a lot of moving parts on my Tamiya kit. The track, road wheels,turret and gun. Do you leave them movable when you build your models ,or being that the model is static, do you glue them all in place. Also spraying the undercoat; do you assemble and glue most of the tank first and then undercoat, or do you spray the individual assembled parts, ( like the suspension units ),to get behind the rear of the units and then glue them together. The magazine i looked at; the priming stage had already been completed. Thanks for any advise. Mal.
Built:
Caldercraft - HM Cutter Sherbourne.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2012 Posts: 104 Points: 312 Location: Brome Lake Quebec
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Max I like to assemble and tidy up as much as possible before I start to prime etc. Sometimes this is not possible, for instance if you are leaving hatches open and want to paint the interior. Also tracks are best primed, painted and at least partially weathered before installing on the model. As for moving parts I tend to glue them solid once I have determined the position that I want them to be in.
I hope that helps John
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/05/2011 Posts: 766 Points: 2,128 Location: Dagenham
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Il be making this as a static so il be glue the wheel and tracks in place. In this kit the instructions says to glue track together as there are are no pins to make them movable. On my next build il be buying upgrades to make things look better but I'm doing this one from the box because its my first. I've built the tank as much as I can before I have primed as it just makes things easier. I've also closed all hatches. Hope this helps max and thanks everyone for your interest in this build CURRENT BUILDS
Mclaren MP4-23 Ford 1/12 Shelby Mustang GT500 2010 HMS Pandora
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Hi S2Ksean Avery nice tidy start, if you look at my Dragon Panther build and finished build section on here it will give you a good idea of the paint sceam for around that time. Keep up the god work regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/02/2012 Posts: 61 Points: 186 Location: N. Wales
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Thanks for the advise,John and S2ksean. I'll be building mine straight from the box. First one since 45years ago, so techniques and painting have changed. Mal.
Built:
Caldercraft - HM Cutter Sherbourne.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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Looking good Mal, a fine start.
It's always difficult to know whether to prime/paint before assembly & depends on what you are building, you'll find what's best for you as you progress.
I've noticed that many builders will build the entire model including firrint all the tools before painting, this doesn't work for me as my hands aren't steady enough to pick out the details after. :0)
If you use extra thin cement (Tamiya or Mr Hobby) it will succesfully glue the items after painting but you do have to be cautious as it will also strip the paint if you flow on too much & watch out for your fingers it will leave a nice print if it flows under them. If you do drip or splash the adhesive on unwanted areas just leave it, it evaporates quickly & shouldn't do any damage.
Wilfy
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/02/2012 Posts: 61 Points: 186 Location: N. Wales
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Sorry Wilfy, it was S2ksean's build of the Tiger.I didn't want to post a new topic just for a quick question. Thanks for the answers, and thanks S2ksean for me butting-in on your build; it helped me alot. Mal.
Built:
Caldercraft - HM Cutter Sherbourne.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/05/2011 Posts: 766 Points: 2,128 Location: Dagenham
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Max your welcome to post questions on here anytime mate it's how we learn. Hopefully il be able to get some more done tonight when I finish. Also I'm be going to get various weathering kits which if there's anyone there reading I will need help with as I never used them before so I don't have a clue how to apply them. Thanks for all the comments peeps Sean CURRENT BUILDS
Mclaren MP4-23 Ford 1/12 Shelby Mustang GT500 2010 HMS Pandora
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2012 Posts: 104 Points: 312 Location: Brome Lake Quebec
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Sean If you can afford them and you have a supplier to go, to go ahead and get the weathering sets that you need. You will find out which ones are useful and which ones less. As a minimum I would recommend several pigments, light, medium and dark mud, and light and dark rust. Additionally try some oil paints particularly burnt umber, raw umber, white, black and yellow ochre. To thin these paints get some odourless turpentine. And to fix the pigments something like Tamiya X-20 thinner will help. This will give you a head start. John
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/05/2011 Posts: 766 Points: 2,128 Location: Dagenham
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Thanks John appreciate it. I was told not long ago by another model maker that instead of using paint thinner that u can use car screen wash instead because its the same ingredients its a lot cheaper and u get alot more in the bottle. The guy who told me this said he has been doing it for years and has never had a problem. He said the only difference is screen wash has a dye in it and that's it. Has anyone else ever heard of this??????? He said its a 50/50 mix. Sean CURRENT BUILDS
Mclaren MP4-23 Ford 1/12 Shelby Mustang GT500 2010 HMS Pandora
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/05/2011 Posts: 766 Points: 2,128 Location: Dagenham
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Here are the paints and weathering sets il be using for the tiger I'm going to get set b aswell soon. Il post pictures of the build progress abit later CURRENT BUILDS
Mclaren MP4-23 Ford 1/12 Shelby Mustang GT500 2010 HMS Pandora
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Fantastic start Tiger tanks always draw a lot of attention take your time and keep working to this standard you should have an excellent first build “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.” -Mark Twain
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/05/2011 Posts: 766 Points: 2,128 Location: Dagenham
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Thanks for the encouragement guys. CURRENT BUILDS
Mclaren MP4-23 Ford 1/12 Shelby Mustang GT500 2010 HMS Pandora
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/05/2011 Posts: 766 Points: 2,128 Location: Dagenham
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