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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/10/2010 Posts: 511 Points: 1,459 Location: Loughborough
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I cant believe how you have such detail in such a difficult build and the rigging is just stunning. I am glued to this build. Peter PS come on Tomick where's that yellow ribbon Builds in progress: HMS Victory.HMS Surprise. Completed builds: Revell London Bus 1/24. Builds to do:Sovereign of the seas, Hms Albion.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 29/03/2012 Posts: 108 Points: 327 Location: Gosport
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I agree, with the rest. Your build is outstanding. An inspiration to all us here. ________________________________________________________________________________________ Built Mare Nostrum Google Photo AlbumMatelot (ˈmætləʊ) , Matlo or Matlow noun (Nautical Terms) slang chiefly Brit - a sailor
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2013 Posts: 174 Points: 534 Location: Bethlehem PA, USA
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I know it's not very exciting, but here's a couple pictures of the Mizzen Staysail installed. Pretty easy and straight forward. The wire really helps to give the sails some definition. I'll post more pics when I get the Main Staysails installed. And thanks for the kind words on my previous posts.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Hi John An absolutely fantastic build. Love it. You certainly know what your doing. Great inspiration also for Newbies like me to aim for. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Fantastic work, a really beautiful build..... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Looks great John, well done, and congrat's on receiving the yellow outstanding build medal
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2013 Posts: 174 Points: 534 Location: Bethlehem PA, USA
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Thanks for the medal! I am very humbled by that.
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Congratulations on a well deserved Yellow medal Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2013 Posts: 174 Points: 534 Location: Bethlehem PA, USA
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Today I finished the Mainmast Stay Sails. I took a couple of pictures, but it's getting hard to do good pics with the cellphone. Once I get The Forestay and Jib Sails done, I'll get out the good camera and take some proper photos with a plain backdrop so you can see better. The Main Stay Sails were pretty time consuming as there are a lot of lines to run and a lot to figure it out properly. The trick is to keep from distorting the Stays themselves as the sail lines can exert a lot of pull on them. Now of course on a real vessel, the sails (by scale) would be considerably lighter and that would not be an issue. In the end, I did manage to keep them from getting distorted, so to me that was a small victory. I've been fighting off a nasty Kidney Stone, so I'll probably slow it down just a tad, plus I never did get finished with the inside house painting project yet. I need to get on that to keep the Captains widow happy.
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Hi John, more beautiful work and a yellow medal that is thoroughly deserved.... Have decided to invest in the rope making kit and to give it a go, just waiting for it to arrive so I can get some practice samples done..... Would you care to tell me what threads you used on yours, if you don't mind I would like to try and emulate your fanatastic work..... .. Keep the pics coming, they are stunning... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2013 Posts: 174 Points: 534 Location: Bethlehem PA, USA
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Here's the links for the thread. http://www.joann.com/coa...ats+outdoor&start=6
http://www.joann.com/coa...ats+outdoor&start=2
So far I've used 8 rolls of Black, and I think I'll use around 5 rolls of Buff. I figured you can get it here or try to find it locally in your country. I don't know what they sell there. This is the only thread I used to do all of the different diameter ropes. There are 3 armatures for winding the ropes. To make the thin ropes, just use 1 rope per armature. For bigger ropes, just use more thread per armature. I actually used 9 threads per armature for the Mainmast Forestay. I can give you more hints as to my thread counts later as to what I used, or you can just experiment and find what you like. This is extremely strong thread and it is ready to use as soon as you wind it. It will not expand or contract with humidity or temperature changes, and it is extremely long lasting. On the ropes I made for the shrouds, you could easily hang a Bowling Ball from it and it wouldn't break! Note: You will need to either keep the ends knotted, or use a drop of CA glue to hold it in place because it is very slippery. You can get the glue I use here. http://www.amazon.com/Pa...&keywords=zap+a+gap
It's the best Darned CA Glue I have ever used. I've used it for over 35 years and would never use anything else. It is invaluable for gluing a lot of different things on the ship as well. This is how I secure every knot I did on the ship. In the case of the Black thread, I painted each glue joint with flat black paint after the glue dried because the glue dries glossy, and you don't want that look, you want a tarred look. On the Buff, the gloss doesn't matter so much because you really don't see it. For parts that I CA glue when I want the glue to set up instantly, I use this. http://www.amazon.com/Pa...amp;keywords=zip+kicker
Just remember, when you build your rope making kit, you want to do something similar to what I did so you can use a cordless drill or something similar to do the windings quickly. If you tried to crank it by hand, it would take you a half hour to do the same rope I could wind in about 1 minute. As a side note: If I were doing repairs to an older model where I had to match the existing rope work I would absolutely use the traditional threads and dying and waxing methods. However, I see no reason to go through such a lengthy process when this works great. It is much, much faster, stronger, and is not subject to temperature and humidity changes which result in all kinds of tensioning issues, as well rotting out due to the traditional threads being organic. I guess I could be accused of being sacrilegious to some of the old school model builders, but technology marches on. I definitely mean no disrespect to those who use the traditional methods (they've worked great for hundreds of years) but I enjoy experimenting and finding what I consider be improvements in building techniques. I don't claim to be even remotely close talent wise to some of the pros, but sometimes I get lucky. I don't claim this is the best way of making ropes, just one way.
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johncal wrote:Here's the links for the thread. http://www.joann.com/coa...ats+outdoor&start=6
http://www.joann.com/coa...ats+outdoor&start=2
So far I've used 8 rolls of Black, and I think I'll use around 5 rolls of Buff. I figured you can get it here or try to find it locally in your country. I don't know what they sell there. This is the only thread I used to do all of the different diameter ropes. There are 3 armatures for winding the ropes. To make the thin ropes, just use 1 rope per armature. For bigger ropes, just use more thread per armature. I actually used 9 threads per armature for the Mainmast Forestay. I can give you more hints as to my thread counts later as to what I used, or you can just experiment and find what you like. This is extremely strong thread and it is ready to use as soon as you wind it. It will not expand or contract with humidity or temperature changes, and it is extremely long lasting. On the ropes I made for the shrouds, you could easily hang a Bowling Ball from it and it wouldn't break! Note: You will need to either keep the ends knotted, or use a drop of CA glue to hold it in place because it is very slippery. You can get the glue I use here. http://www.amazon.com/Pa...&keywords=zap+a+gap
It's the best Darned CA Glue I have ever used. I've used it for over 35 years and would never use anything else. It is invaluable for gluing a lot of different things on the ship as well. This is how I secure every knot I did on the ship. In the case of the Black thread, I painted each glue joint with flat black paint after the glue dried because the glue dries glossy, and you don't want that look, you want a tarred look. On the Buff, the gloss doesn't matter so much because you really don't see it. For parts that I CA glue when I want the glue to set up instantly, I use this. http://www.amazon.com/Pa...amp;keywords=zip+kicker
Just remember, when you build your rope making kit, you want to do something similar to what I did so you can use a cordless drill or something similar to do the windings quickly. If you tried to crank it by hand, it would take you a half hour to do the same rope I could wind in about 1 minute. As a side note: If I were doing repairs to an older model where I had to match the existing rope work I would absolutely use the traditional threads and dying and waxing methods. However, I see no reason to go through such a lengthy process when this works great. It is much, much faster, stronger, and is not subject to temperature and humidity changes which result in all kinds of tensioning issues, as well rotting out due to the traditional threads being organic. I guess I could be accused of being sacrilegious to some of the old school model builders, but technology marches on. I definitely mean no disrespect to those who use the traditional methods (they've worked great for hundreds of years) but I enjoy experimenting and finding what I consider be improvements in building techniques. I don't claim to be even remotely close talent wise to some of the pros, but sometimes I get lucky. I don't claim this is the best way of making ropes, just one way. Thanks very much for the thoroughly detailed reply it is most appreciated.. I have managed to find the same product here in the UK but here is where I got the big surprise, in the states I see you pay around $3.70 for a real, the same product here in the UK retails at around £10.50.. At that price I think I will be having a look around to see if I can find anything that would be comparable... Thanks again.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2013 Posts: 174 Points: 534 Location: Bethlehem PA, USA
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I will be posting some good pics in a little bit, but I got sidetracked for a while but in a good way. I needed a little time off. Just 2 lines to run on the Flying jib and then I can move on to the yards and associated sails.
I got another wonderful secret anniversary trip from my wife. This time she took me to Boston to see the USS Constitution. I did all of the tours on the ship, but the night before my wife and I went down to the dock. We got talking to one of the sailors that works the ship and he offered to take me on a private tour!
In the regular tours you can only go on the top 3 decks, but my wife and I were taken throughout all of the lower decks that nobody else normally gets to see. I'm talking about crazy to get into tiny places.
Although it's an American rigged ship, it's almost identical as far as the standing rigging goes. Certainly enough to help as another source of reference. I will be posting pics to my Dropbox soon so I would encourage anybody interested in getting their standing rigging to look great would check it out. Besides, they're just awesome pics. For the most part I just took all sorts of technical shots that will give you great detail that you almost never get with pics on the web. This is good stuff.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2013 Posts: 174 Points: 534 Location: Bethlehem PA, USA
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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Beautiful work, she looks amazing
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A wonderful looking build John, credit to your skill and patience.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Fantastic work John, you must be very proud of this one Steve
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2013 Posts: 174 Points: 534 Location: Bethlehem PA, USA
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Wow, there's cobwebs on this forum. I guess nobody else has done anything in a month or so? Let's get something going.
I just got back on task after taking a month off as the build was really burning me out. As luck would have it, the power switch on my 1" belt sander broke after shaping 4 of the yards so now I'm stalled out until that arrives.
I'm actually using my cordless drill and my belt sander as a lathe and as primitive as it sounds, I am getting excellent results so far. It really works great and you don't have to but any expensive equipment. All you need are steady hands and a good eye. Would it be off if you measured it.... I'm sure. But it looks great by eye and that's what counts.
I'll be back in the not so distant future with some more updates.
Cheers!
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/03/2010 Posts: 602 Points: 1,679 Location: Lincs
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Fantastic looking build - hope mine looks half as good as yours when it's finished You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to skydive twice.
Built: Golden Star, English Brig. RMS Titanic. (Academy 1/400 Centenary Anniversary Edition) Revell-Monogram 1/48 B-29 Superfortress 1:8 Baron von Richthofen's Fokker Tri-plane. HMS Victory. Nelsons Flag Ship. Sultan Arab Dhow. Artesania Latina Carmen II. The Battleship Yamato. Model Airways Wright Flyer 1:16 Scale. Trumpeter Bismarck 1/200. HMS Sovereign of the Seas. The Black Pearl.
Building:HMS Surprisel. Hatchette U96. Soleil Royal.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2013 Posts: 174 Points: 534 Location: Bethlehem PA, USA
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Well, I'm over 1000hours now! I just started working on the Yards. For the foot ropes I decided to use eyes that I custom made instead of rope drops. I wanted something that would hold the foot ropes reliably and I thought that something that might be a little less accurate but better looking would be a good trade off. They are really small eyes made out of steel picture hanging wire and were tough to make but they turned out good. I will run ropes around the yards at the drops to make it look more authentic. Tonight I put the eyes on a couple of yards as I wanted to get my approach figured out before I went nuts and did them all. You'll also see that the bands that hold the Stunsail booms are not what came in the kit. The kit ones looked like crap and they didn't work with the beefier yards I am doing. I dumped the stuff that came with the kit and bought some nice birch to make the yards. I used the old hand drill and 1" belt sander lathe and eyeball approach and it turned out great. Not exactly high speed but with a little ingenuity you can do a nice job this way. With the good wood, these things are extremely strong and true. I had a test one I broke when I was done with it just to see how strong it was, and it was really hard to snap. Anyways I used my pressure sensitive adhesive copper tape and used multiple wraps to make the bands thick looking and used a spot of CA glue where the 2 bands touch to make them look like 1 fused unit. After it's all painted and roughed up it looks pretty authentic. Anyways, it's coming along slowly but surely. I'll do more pics as the yards progress. I wanted to post more pics in this area because there's really nothing out there to help you along so I wanted to pass along how I'm doing it. These yards are going to take a long time to do right.
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