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Rank: Administration  Groups: Administrator, Administrators, Forum Support Team, Global Forum Support, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 1,927 Points: 5,803 Location: UK
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This is going to be fun :)
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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D51 Steam Locomotive
The Class D51 is a type of 2-8-2 steam locomotive built by the Japanese Government Railways and Japanese National Railways (JNR) from 1936 to 1951. Its title consists of a "D" for the four sets of driving wheels and the class number 51 for tender locomotives. Early D51's were known as the "Namekuji type" (slug type). A total of 1,115 D51 locomotives were built, the largest number of locomotives of a single class in Japan.
At the end of World War II, a number of D51's were abandoned on Karafuto Island by the retreating Japanese, which were used until 1979 by the Soviet railway. A D51 currently stands outside the Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk Railway Station, Karafuto (since renamed Sakhalin Island Russia).
D51 locomotive No.200 (on which the partwork model is based), has been preserved and is on display at the Umekoji Locomotive Museum, Kyoto, Japan.
http://www1.odn.ne.jp/~cah22900/uslmD51200.htm
Locomotive D51-200 was built in 1938 at the the JNR Hamamatsu factory. It is 19.7m long, weighs 125.1 tons and a maximum speed of 85km/h
Overview of the D51-200 model:
1/24 scale replica - Length 880mm (360mm without Tender). Height 165mm. Width 112mm.
Model weight: 10.4kgs
Static display model with working features: Operable smokebox & firebox doors with lighted firebox, working smoke box lamp, sliding cab windows, folding cab arm rests. Digital sound module. Operable locomotion. Pre-painted footplate crew and photographer figurines.
The collection also includes a "rolling road" display base, which displays the locomotion movement (1080mm long, 210mm wide).
http://www.youtube.com/w...feature=player_embedded
http://www.model-space.c...09508/d51_info_pack.pdf
Note - The D51 model is NOT intended for use in play or on a model rail layout.
The official build diary will follow the format of the instructions and will not include any enhancement to the build. You are of course free to build, enhance and finish your model how you so choose. Please Note: Official build diary images are protected under Copyright.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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The official build will follow the (natural) brass finish guise.
Pack 01 contains Stages 1-4Stage 1 - Contains the boiler ring, smokebox front plate, hinges, number plate, brass wire and a number plate mounting jig.
Cut the brass wire into four equal lengths, then smooth the ends of the wire and remove any sharp edges.
Place the number plate upside down, then glue the lengths of wire into the four holes on the plate.
Place the number plate onto the smokebox door, aligning the four wires with the four mount holes, then place the plastic spacer benhind the number plate as shown. Fix the plate in place by applying glue at points where the wires protrude the door, and when fully dry, snip off the excess to leave approx 2mm protruding.
Take the boiler and smokebox rings. Glue both together as shown, ensuring that the screw holes are aligned with such as a cocktail stick.
Take the hinges, identify each by the U and L markings, and glue each in place onto the boiler ring, and in turn onto the smokebox door. Be carful not to get glue into the hinge.
When the glue has set you should have an operable smoke box door.
For now, secure the door shut with a piece of masking tape.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 2 - Contains the smokebox, boiler joint ring and screws.
Remove the transparent plastic ring from the smokebox and disgard it.
Identify which way round the ring fits into the smokebox and at which end.
Apply epoxy glue to the inside of the smokebox at the end where the rivet pattern is, then carefully slide the boiler ring in place. Do Not use a fast cure epoxy in this instance, as you may need to rotate the ring and also have time to secure the ring with screws as shown.
Apply epoxy to the inside of the opposite end of the smokebox, then slide the smokebox door assembly in place, so that the screw holes on the lower side align with the holes in the smoke box, then secure the smokebox to the door with four screws.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 3 - Contains the chimney and lip, feedwater heater, pipe joint and the feedwater pipe.
Insert the chimmney into the lip as shown, then apply glue to the underside of the lip place the chimmney onto the boiler. Before the adhsive sets, check that the chimney is at a right-angle to the smokebox and central within its mounting hole.
Take the feedwater tank and both end caps, glue and fit the caps as shown at the correct end of the tank.
Glue the tank onto the smokebox at it mount points. Ensure that it is the right way round as shown.
Glue the feedwater pipe joint onto the tank so that it sits parallel, the glue the feedwater pipe onto the joint so that it sits vertical upon the smokebox.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 4 - Contains the first driving wheel set, coupling rods, bushing pins and rod pins.
Use a fine file to remove the casting burrs from the coupling rods as shown.
Identify the left and right rods.
Take the wheel set. Then fit the right side coupling rod with its recess facing upwards over the hole on the side of the wheel, insert one of the brass bushing into the hole, and secure the rod with the screw pin, but do not fully tighten the screw.
Repeat to fit for the rod on the left side. (I may opt to secure the screw fixings with thread lock later on in the build, just to be sure they and other bar fixings, won't rotate loose during movement).
Carefully store the wheel unit to avoid bending the rod fixings.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Pack 02 contains Stages 5-8
Stage 5 - Contains spark arrester parts, blast pipe and screws.
Identify the correct orientation of the spark arrester ring as shown, its thick rim side should face upwards when seatred upon the spark arrester mesh. Then glue the ring in place on the arrester.
Glue the arrester ring mesh onto the arrester base, then glue the base onto the spark arrester, carefully aligning the solder joint on both parts as shown.
Apply glue to the inside of the ring, then fit the spark arrester lip in the orientation shown.
Place the blast pipe into the spark arreste as shown, but DO NOT glue it in place., apply glue around the chimmney seat, then fit the spark arrester assembly onto the chimmney, make sure that the solder joint of the arrester assembly faces aft to smoke box door.
When you turn the smoke box over the blast pipe will then drop down, where you can then secure its base in place within the smokebox, use four screws from the outside of the smokebox to secure it.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 6 - Contains the front deck parts.
Glue the front deck plates together and fit two screws as shown to assist alignment and clamp the parts togtether.
Remove the screws and clamps when the glue has set.
Glue and fit the deck edge plates at either end of the deck
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 7 - Contains lamp hooks and maintenance hatch parts.
Place the hatch onto front deck as shown, then apply adhesive along the seam joint to fix it in place.
Fit and glue the lamp hooks onto the hatch as shown, followed by the front cover fitted between, ensure it is correctly oriented.
Fit the upper plate and apply glue along its seam joint from the inside to fix it in place.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 8 - Contains release lever parts, gurad irons, front beam, and screws.
Position the release lever mounting parts upon the lever as shown in the correct oriention and position.
Fit each of the lever mount parts into the front beam, then secure each mount by applying glue at the rear.
Apply epoxy glue along the length of the beam lip of the front deck assembly, then fit the beam and secure with two screws into the flanges,
Identify the guard iron parts with their coresponding positions left and right. Fit each with a screw onto the beam.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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