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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/11/2011 Posts: 200 Points: 506
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WOO HOOOOOOOOOO! First parts Just dragged here by the Postie!    I will get the camera out and start logging stuff and posting shortly. I will be also covering this build for an Internet model magazine. THis build should prove to be an interesting one, that should teach us great care, patience and many new skills. James
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Which net model magazine, feel free to provide a link?
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/11/2011 Posts: 200 Points: 506
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/11/2011 Posts: 200 Points: 506
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Here are the parts, still in the packaging for you all to see
Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 Stage 4 With this first pack and the 4 stages I can divide them up as follows:
Helmet
Facemask
1 set of Tassets
Front Curiass
Instead of jumping around I intend to build in sections. To log this build I will be using my Nikon D600 with both my standard Nikon (24-70) zoom lens and a Sigma DG 105mm macro lens. This, I hope will be able to photograph in great detail for you all.
As always, I will be posting my build photos on my photobucket site before posting my build on here, and if fellow builders see a photo that they would like as a reference then please contact me and I can email you a full size original photo. All my photos are edited for light levels and file size only. Should you wish to print out, original photos are printable in full detail up to A3
My next post will include close ups of all the components stage by stage, and then grouped together in build groups as listed above.
I am not rushing this at all. Plenty of time to work and to take it easy, slowly and steadily.
THanks Deag for the opportunity to get to grips with something totally different.
Now how about a full size one of this to build:
http://upload.wikimedia....hingen_Takeda_armour.jpg
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/11/2011 Posts: 200 Points: 506
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Here we go with closeups of the individual parts.
                     
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hello James,
This looks like it is going to be an interesting and well presented build with some great photos to illustrate it - well done!! 
Not a criticism here James, just offering some constructive comment if I may, but with the photos being of such a close-up nature, I noticed a few fingerprints on some of the parts which don't have a protective film on them? It would be worthwhile wearing some 'Lint-free' gloves when handling them if possible - difficult with the smaller parts I know - otherwise the acids in the fingerprints may come back to haunt you at a later date?
Hope that helps, but a great looking diary nonetheless and I am sure the build will be as good - well done again James and looking forward to watching your progress.
Kev 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/11/2011 Posts: 200 Points: 506
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Now I want to discuss my helmet build. I did notice one or two things. One thing wasn't fully explained in the instructions, but with the experience of builders doing this I suppose that there should be no problems, but I would like to cover it. Here are the parts for the initial helmet build gathered together.  The first thing we do is to put the two halves of the helmet together and then secure them with two screws and a joining plate. The two halves go together well along one of the ridges and on the outside you can't see the join unless you look really closely.  THe instructions tell you to line the two arrows up  Closeup of the joining plate, screws and arrows. I found that the screwdriver from the Zero build perfectly fine for this. Make sure that you get this right.  The next thing we add is 4 lugs. I found 6 in the pack. Now the instructions are not clear on where they go. So I donned my close up optivisor and had a look and then got my macro lens out for the camera. THere are two holes. The lower one is slightly bigger than the upper one. The four lugs go in the upper holes. Here are the close up piccies! The Lugs  The holes  Lug in place  Next Job is to put the helmet rim together. This is easy and after a dry fit to see where the glue should actually go just let it cure. The fit is actually very good and I used small dabs of liquid superglue.  The last part of the build for the helmet has the bowl glued to the rim. Once again a simple dry fit and then dabs of liquid superglue on both surfaces and then put together making sure that the tabs go in the correct holes and then left to cure. The fist part of the helmet is finished!  Once finished the armour is cleaned with a pump spray which contains a camera lens cleaner solution and lint free cloths and then wrapped in a large lint free duster to protect it.
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 Rank: Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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Nice Photos James. I agree the instructions are not clear about the Helmet Rivets, I had to check with Mr T's build.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
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Next up is the breastplate. Not much to mention about this part of the build apart from that it is wise to clamp the parts until the glue has cured prepoerly.
The Parts
THe first part I attached to the main frontplate was the upper part where the straps etc will attach. Once again I used drops of superglue and clamps with rubber pads on not only to prevent scratches to the finish, but to grip the parts too
Here is a picture of the joined parts. Any smears and fingerprins are cleaned off with a squirt of Pledge and a microfibre cloth plus some elbow grease. It also adds to the shine too!!!!
THe two hinge plates are attached with the same method.
That's it for this part for the moment. No major issues to report building the first part of the breastplate apart from the obvious of looking out for scratches etc and protecting the parts. I will leave on the protective plastic on the front plate as long as I can.
Next part, the face mask.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
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Now the dust has hopefully settled on an issue and the switch in my operating system has been reset to "Grumpy Mode Off"  Here is my Faceplate build.
Or rather the first part of it as there is more to come.
The parts
The fist things I attached to the lower faceplate were the ears.
I didn't have any problems and used s clamp until the cyrowhatever had cured (not long!) it now looks as if the thing can actually hear me being grumpy! although I did check with the instructions a couple of times to make sure that I got them the right way round and not the wrong way round and upside down!!!
Moving on I inserted the faceplate drain in to the hole and wondered if the Samurai drooled alot in combat!!
next comes the attachment points on each side of the facemask. I did a dry fit with each one making sure that everything was the right way round and did come across a problem
the fancy bit of the attchement point didn't quite fit!
Ah! no need to worry, It's metalwork 101 and the part just needs a bit of extra bending. Now to avoid the finish getting damaged we take action on our bending plyers first and wrap the jaws in tamiya masking tape
The part is bent to fit the contours in small stages being test fitted many times until it fits snugly. THen I applied tiny blobs of liquid cyro and attached. This was done on both sides.
The nose attachment made me think. I know that there is a moustach and beard to fit onto the faceplate and that being able to work on the nose seperatly could be a good thing and would give more room to work and so I have only fixed the left nose fixing point permanently. The right one is only dry fitted at this moment in time so I can remove the nose. It should be easy to fix properly later.
Here we have the nose in place, but removeable. for storage I will apply a bit of tamiya masking tape so no parts go astray.
That's the first part of the face mask finished. A quick squirt with pledge and a good rub with a duster to remove fingermarks
Next build post... Something which has occupied the braincell in the locker at the back of the skull ever since the first pack arrived...... THE TASSET!!!!!!   
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The Nose /face piece is still removable after the holding studs are fitted in the correct way, ie both studs/pins facing the same way as stated in the instructions, so there is no problem with the fitting of the beard bits Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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I agree with this, the Nose piece is removable if the mounting pins are fitted correctly, as per the insructions.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hope you convey that it is removable in your online mag build, therefore no need to leave a pin off..
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hi James,
Do you have a link to the online magazine that you are publishing this build on? It sounds like a very interesting concept to me, maybe something I'd be interested in doing at a later date? Do they accept anybody who wants to do it for publishing builds or does it depend more on the quality of their work perhaps? Certainly something I'd like to have a go at as I say?!
Making good progress on the Samurai build now by the way!
Kev
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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SennaMentalMe wrote:Hi James,
Do you have a link to the online magazine that you are publishing this build on? It sounds like a very interesting concept to me, maybe something I'd be interested in doing at a later date? Do they accept anybody who wants to do it for publishing builds or does it depend more on the quality of their work perhaps? Certainly something I'd like to have a go at as I say?!
Making good progress on the Samurai build now by the way!
Kev Kev, see post #3 in this thread.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/11/2011 Posts: 200 Points: 506
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Thanks for the comments guys. I will, in my magazine build point out that I am deliberatly not fixing the right nose fixing pin at this moment in time, although the nose is/should be removeable even with both pins fixed in place and will note when I fix it permanently. I just want to leave my options open. Nothing wrong with that.
As I post this, The first part of my magazine build is more or less ready to be sent to the editor and I will be doing that after I have checked it over and written a bit more for the introduction and about Date Mamasume himself. Gathering info from several sources takes time as well as sorting out what is actually known and what is hearsay or supposition.
Kev, there is no money involved with this online magazine. I was accepted by the editor after talking to him at a model show. You are welcome to subscribe to the magazine and to send your model photos in for the gallery. The editor asked me to come on board the review team after reading and seeing my 1/32 Swordfish build that I had done and was particulalay interested in the amount of research I had done on the actual colours used in painting the model which included "shadow shading" that was commonly part of Swordfish and RN biplane camouflage. I painted this aircraft up to represent an aircraft used in the Taranto Raid, of which I included information on as part of the build.
James
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hello James,
I wasn't thinking of payment particularly, more of just getting involved with an online modelling magazine and maybe putting some stuff in their gallery, though I can see why you assumed that's what I was thinking as I know that other magazines do pay for build reviews and suchlike - if you're good enough!?
I'd be interested to see your 1:32 Swordfish build, one of my favourite biplanes. Why don't you post some pictures in the 'Finished Build Gallery' on here, so we can have a look?
Kev
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/11/2011 Posts: 200 Points: 506
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Grumpy Old Victor reporting in  I am not trying to increase subscriptions to the magazine that is all. I just wanted to point out that I will be submitting this build to the mag that is all. I will post pictures in the gallery section of the forum of the stringbag and also I will put together my final post of pack one, the tassets, tomorrow I am waiting for pack 2 to be heaved to the door by a not to happy postman. They are quite big packs aren't they! Should be quite soon now!!! I also have in my posession ZM's new HE 219 UHU which I have started. I have had it for a week now and so far have only put together the fuselage fuel tanks. not having an airbrush anymore (el cheapo set of compressor and brush decided to have a meltdown of some description) I have decided to do this with lots of panels open and a bare metal finish. I would like to find a luftwaffe ground crew in either 1/35 or 1/32 and make it look as if it was being test flown before going into the paint shed and had a problem. Anybody any ideas for the ground crew???
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