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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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As a few members have expressed an interest in carving,I thought I would have a go at a tutorial,guiding you through the process I use to create one of the hawse holes ornamental surrounds on my Sovereign of the Seas.Starting off with 5mm pear wood sheet I cut a blank 12mm wide.This was sanded to the curve of the bow both inside and outside so I was in effect left with a piece 3mm thick,but curved.I left a long piece of the blank on the end to aid holding.
Kind Regards Nigel
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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In the first pic we have the tools I will use. A 1mm ball shaped burr for the dremel A pointed dental probe Pin vise with 0.4mm drill A pack of assorted jeweller's needle files Small proxxon machine vise(just handy for holding the work) Also but not shown Rolsen head magnifiers with led lamp 1.8x lens Medium scalpel handle with plenty of no 26 blades. The scalpel may seem large,but I put my index finger on the back of the blade.This stops blade flex and gives more control as I will only ever be using the first few mms of the blade. Pic two This shows the initial shaping of the blank.This is perfomed with scalpel and burr.This is only rough as the detail on the ends is better left oversize for now to prevent breakage.The raised surround is also overwidth to minimise damage during the initial shaping.This blank is overthick to allow a gradual and controlled reduction in thickness. Pic three This shows the start of reducing the thickness using the scalpel and burr to establish the different levels of the carving.I have also started to reduce the width of the raised parts to nearer the finished size Rgds Nigel NMBROOK attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Pic four I first drilled the hole for the nasal cavity.This should be central top to bottom in relation to the head to maintain human like proportions.I then drilled holes for the eye sockets.All three of these holes were drilled 0.4mm using the pinvise and 2-3mm deep.I have also started to work on the hairline,lightly shaving away the area below using the scalpel.The two grooves to either side of the face have been deepened using the scalpel and gentle scraping with the probe.The area below what will be the ribcage has been lowered and the spinal detail has been incorperated. Pic five I am now concentrating on the facial profile.As this is a skull and not a face,the area below the eye sockets needs to truncate inwards and then straight down to the chin.This is very slowly shaved away with the scalpel.Also I have started to slowly started to apply the natural curve to the face including the raised area above the eye sockets and the slightly lower area beneath the nasal cavity.The eye sockets and nasal cavity have been enlarged using the scalpel tip and probe.The final step here is the mouth.One thing when carving is never try and cut a line with the blade,simply create a row of dots with the tip of the blade,then lightly score.I did the top and bottom of the mouth like this and gently chipped the wood away inbetween with the blade tip. I will continue tomorrow afternoon as I really need natural light to take quality pics Rgds Nigel NMBROOK attached the following image(s):
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Well you certainly have one avid follower here Nigel, excellent tutorial...  .. Look forward to tomorrow's instalment...  Regards Alan
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Great tutorial you make it sound easy. out of interest how long did it take you to do the one carving? “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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jase wrote:Great tutorial you make it sound easy. out of interest how long did it take you to do the one carving?
Thanks Jase I think the one for the other side totaled about nine to ten hours.Can't say with this one as I have been messing about a bit and taking pics etc. Kind Regards Nigel
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Gandale wrote:Well you certainly have one avid follower here Nigel, excellent tutorial... .. Look forward to tomorrow's instalment... Regards Alan Thank you very much indeed Alan .If I inspire a few modellers like yourself to have a go then it is more than worth it. Kind Regards Nigel
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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2012 Posts: 651 Points: 1,903 Location: croydon
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Hi Nigel. Top work from a top modeler. Fantastic and thanks for posting . Best regards. Mark
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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mark 2 wrote:Hi Nigel. Top work from a top modeler. Fantastic and thanks for posting . Best regards. Mark Thank you very much indeed Mark more to come Kind Regards Nigel
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Pic 1 I have refined further the shoulder and jaw area.I did this using the tip of my scalpel.Even though I have only removed the very minimum of material,you can see the 'planet of the apes'appearance has gone and has been replaced by a definate skull. Before proceeding further,I cut the carving off the stock and glued it to the end of a piece of beech strip using thick cyano.This enables me to clamp it in my small proxxon machine vice. Pic 2 This shows the two burrs to be used in the next step. Pic 3 The first job was to reduce the background to final thickness.I did this using the burr in the top of pic 2.This burr has a flat smooth bottom with cutting edges on the side.By keep the tool square to the surface and gently dabbing,I not only flattened the surface but created a finer surface finish at the same time. Using the burr at the bottom of pic 2,I gently reduced the width of the raised edges,again by dabbing,trying to follow the edge with the tool will end in a disaster! Kind Regards Nigel NMBROOK attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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The final installment.The rib detail was added with careful use of the scalpel and dental probe.The end details were gently pared down and shaped with the scalpel.After a general tidy the carving was then cleaned up with p320 silicon carbide paper.I smoothed the background by superglueing the abrasive paper on to the end of a piece of 1mmx2mm stock. Kind Regards Nigel NMBROOK attached the following image(s):
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Beautiful work Nigel, I'm now on the hunt for some miniature carving tools....... Thanks for the tutorial.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi Alan Thank you very much Alan The set of burrs and small files are from originalmarquetry.com.The really small round burr is proxxon. Kind Regards Nigel
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