Thanks Alan for the nice comments. This is an idea I picked up from reading tons of information about ship-modelling on the internet.

Due to the fact that I am a novice builder, I am curious how the instruction was formulated to give me a better understanding about the steps in the magazine. If I need to make alterations due to a earlier mistake, I have some knowledge on what bands I can use to do modification, without discarding the original instructions (only bending it a little).

Nice work on the planking Marcel keep the pics coming Rgd Martyn

I had reach another roadblock in the first layer of planking. Issue 20 have 10 strakes from bow to stern. I have only used 9 strakes to reach the same goal. My only explanation is the 5.5mm wide bamboo of my supplies instead of the 5mm width: 10 x 0.5mm = 5mm. To follow the instructions I need to compromise a few steps. I have to use lots of grey matter and maths to come true again with the instruction.

Any help here would be appreciated.

Thanks Alan for the help here.


I planned not to paint the hull white, but to use dark veneer. Although imperfections will be hidden, I need to fix my booboo I made at the stern in row 1 from the 1st two decks. I placed it one row too high which had to be broken off and rectified to fit the laser cut parts of the castle.

I had a good night rest while brainstorming and came up with a solution for my dilemma. All is need is a bit of my engineering skills.

.If 9 rows is enough to do the job of 10 rows, which both measure close to 50mm, I only have to move on to the steps of the 11th row in the instructions
I can also use one or two sharp long tapered plank at the stern to equal the number of planks on all ribs and level the rows later as shown in the instructions.

For the infill at the stern, I used 6mm apple wood for more support.

I used the small sanding-barrel mandrill from the rotary drill kit to sand it down by hand the contour where the castle meets the lower planks.

The rest is the basic instructions followed.

Sovereign of the Seas
The HMS Sovereign of the Seas had a total length of 71 meters, a beam of 14.7 meters and a draught of 7.2 meters. The keel was timber piece of 39 meters length and 80 cm thickness. The golden decorations alone were equivalent to the cost of an average warship armed with forty guns.
The kitchen was traditionally placed in the forecastle, while the quarterdeck and poop housed the chambers of the commander and officers. The orlop deck and the hold, (below the gun decks) served as the storage for the goods of the ship. On the orlop deck below the commander’s and officers’ chambers, runs the rudder’s tiller which was attached to a lever to control the steering.
The gun decks, bulwarks and uncovered upper gun deck were painted in bright red to dissimulate the blood patches during combat.
The bronze cannons were typical of that time. To gain better stability, one of the covered gun decks was later removed.
Most of the precious ornaments were also removed as well and also her name was modified; firstly Sovereign in 1650, lately Royal Sovereign in 1685.


Sovereign of the Seas
1 - Spritsail :: 2 - Spritsail topsail :: 3 - Foresail :: 4 - Fore topsail :: 5 - Fore topgallant sail :: 6 - Fore royal sail :: 7 - Mainsail :: 8 - Main topsail :: 9 - Main topgallant sail :: 10 - Main royal sail :: 11 - Mizzen topsail :: 12 - Mizzen topgallant sail :: 13 - Mizzen sail :: 14 - Topmast of spritsail topsail :: 15 - Fore stay :: 16 - Fore topmast stay :: 17 - Fore topgallant stay :: 18 - Fore royal stay :: 19 - Main stay :: 20 - Main topmast stay :: 21 - Main topgallant stay :: 22 - Main royal stay :: 23 - Mizzen stay :: 24 - Mizzen topmast stay :: 25 - Mizzen topgallant stay :: 26 - Forepeak fairleads :: 27 - Bowsprit lashings :: 28 - Fore stay collar :: 29 - Clew garnet :: 30 - Buntline :: 31 - Bowlines :: 32 - Bridles :: 33 - Halyard :: 34 - Cargo rig :: 35 - Topping lift

Progressing very nicely Marcel and you soon have the first layer complete... Looks as if it will sand down very nicely to give you a good grounding for the 2nd layer.... .. Keep up the good work and keep posting.....

Regards

Alan

Issue 25

Making the hole in one of the thwarts is done easier with a 3mm drill bit.

Clamp or glue the ends of two pieces of planks together and drill a hole on the centreline.
Separate the two planks and you'll have a precise 3mm wide by 1.5 deep recess in the thwart.

HI Marcel.
Looking very nice. look forward to seeing your progress Ian

Thanks Ian for looking in. I find the part works halters my progress while I had to wait for needed issues that contains vital info on certain measurements.
On the bright side, I have to admit that its fun to take a break from the planking. I stumbled onto many flaws in the measurements that can be corrected now with the hull semi-planked.