|
|
 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
2mm BRASS SCREWS In case anyone wishes to see what these screws are like. Find image attached. regards Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
|
Hi Dennis,
This site has a huge aray of scale fasteners. Though in the USA, I have dealt with them for many years and delivery is speedy
http://www.scalehardware.com/
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Tomick,
Yes I am familiar with the US based company. However the situation regarding UK import duty on values over £15 means that low priced goods if logged attract unreasonable fees that make importation unattractive.
However I priced the US fasteners which worked out at 26 pence each plus post where'as the UK company is 30 pence each plus lower postage.
Dennis
|
|
|
 Rank: Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
|
Nothing much seems to escape the beady eye of HMRC these days. I got clobbered on a 20 quid order from the US recently. It's not the £4 VAT I mind so much, but the outrageous £8 Post Office Handling Charge. 
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Parts 03 (09/10/11/12) The left and right brass inspection lids have been soldered in place, the recess at the rear proving ideal. Following fitting the lids all 4 brass steps were also soldered in place. A little difficult aligning them due to heat whilst soldering (ouch!). In the end I used miniature long nosed pliers to hold each step at the correct angle whilst reheating the solder with the 40W iron. The two brass side steps were held in place using the supplied screws and then soldered underneath. The screws could them be removed. I intend to solder 1/16 brass rivets in the screw holes which I feel will look more authentic. Finally the air hose was attached to the alloy release lever bar as described in the instructions using epoxy adhesive. The main underframe was assembled as per the instructions. I have elected to use the M2 brass hexagon screws (see previous post) instead of the crosshead screws were they will be seen once the model is finished. I found it easier to fix the four long rivets in each arm first and then offer the arm upto the mainframe carefully aligning the four rivets in the frame holes before the adhesive set. regards Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
|
The hex screws look the part Dennis 
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Tomick,
Thank you. I expect they will blend in quite nice once painted.
regards
Dennis
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
D51 - parts 04 - covers I decided it would be best to list this seperately from the 04 parts (13/14/15/16) full detail. Having viewed the STEP BY STEP I intended to solder the Cylinder side plates left and right in place on the front and rear cylinder plates. However the front and rear cylinder covers plus the front steam chest covers and the piston valve tail guides were alloy. Being alloy I would be using epoxy adhesive to fix them in place. Soldering of the cylinder side plates could result in the epoxy loosening because of the heat applied. I noticed that the nose sections of the alloy covers protruded some way inside the cylinder plates. I measured these 'noses' and found they were 9.9mm and 7.9mm in diameter.The front cover noses were just less than 3mm in length and the other covers etc had 4mm noses. It was a simple process to thread these noses. I already had M10 x 1.25 and M8 x 1.25 split dies. All the noses were threaded. I then found some 13mm brass hexagon bar and made up some 3mm and 4mm long nuts for the M8 and M10 threaded noses. Now the covers and the front steam chest covers plus the piston valve tail guides could be fixed in place using a nut on the rear (which will be hidden inside the cylinders). I may possibly Loctite these nuts in place although once tightened they should be fine. Interestingly while degreasing all the parts following the threading etc I noticed that the 'brass' finish came off. Therefore those of you that are leaving the model in the 'brass' state need to ensure these parts are not cleaned especially in solvents. The image shows all the covers etc after threading and one complete with the brass nut. Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
 Hi Dennis A proper enginears solution Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Andy, Thank you. Additional image attached. Tried to attach it to previous post but failed. regards Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
D51 - Parts 04 completed Following on from the previous post re modified covers etc I first soldered the drainage pipes, inspection covers and hole covers in place on each cylinder side plate. I have purposely left fitting the air valve wheels until after painting rather than mask them off. I then fitted the cylinder side plates left and right. These were retained in place using two screws at the top, two across the middle and the two underneath on the bottom. These screws held the plates while the front and rear edges where soldered in place. The screws were then removed and the screw holes soldered up. Excess solder was then sanded away using a small file and emery boards. Finally the piston rod / housing were fixed in place using epoxy. regards Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Dennis Nice work,iv just had the e-mail saying part 6 is on its way regards Andy  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
|
|
|
 Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
|
Hi Dennis, very nice work Kind regards Mike MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Mike,
Thank you. I am enjoying the build.
regards
Dennis
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
D51 - parts - 05 Little to report in the assembly of parts 17/18/19/20. The instructions have been followed. I have continue to use the hexagon screws such as on the motion frames where I expect they will be seen when completed. Fitting the rivets is quite taxing since I have opted to glue each one in place. The rivets appear to be alloy and since both they and the frames are prepainted/coated then glueing painted parts to painted parts may be fraught long term. Therefore glueing each rivet separately simply ensured that there was glue under each rivet head. I used slow epoxy for this. Once all the rivets are in place and before the epoxy set I used cotton buds and suitable thinners outdoors to clean up excess epoxy from the area around the rivet heads. This worked fine. I realise there have been many posts re painting or otherwise. I have elected to paint/airbrush mine, driven to some degree by the excellent DeAgostini painted sample. However some forward thinking will be required when painting since some parts are not as accessible once assembled. An example will be the wheels and motion gear which I will leave off until the main chassis is completed/painted. regards Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Dennis The rivets certainly are a pain to fit but look great in situ the way i did them was to fit them all then dab glue on the back, your thoughts on the painting is more or less the conclusion i reached too. Looking good regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Andy,
Yes I agree the rivets really do help the authentic appearance. I am sure a coat of paint as and when will help retain them.
regards
Dennis
|
|
|
 Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
|
worried about the rivets been glued in I wouldn't I glued a set the wrong way round and what a job I had getting them back out, super glue release agent on for half an hour and still had a job pressing them out with a pliers
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Willie I can think of a few times i have fitted things wrongly and the remedial action needed to put it right and sorry to hear about your misshap. A lesson we all at some point have to endure and learn from regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Willie,
Perhaps I need to look again at superglues.
Thank you for the comment.
cheers
Dennis
|
|
|
|
Guest
|
US
