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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/02/2014 Posts: 180 Points: 526 Location: Big T
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Hello Dennis,
Looking really good. I like how you did the two round windows and the framed cut out on the deflectors. Very nicely done.
Mark
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Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Hi Mark,
Thank you. Prompted by your posting some time back. The cab initially was very flimsy but as it received support then including the windows was easier.
regards
Dennis
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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D51 Parts set 18 - Soldering
For those interested I have updated the 'Modelling Know How' section re soldering since the edging in particular in the latest set of parts continued to provide excellent opportunities.
regards Dennis
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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D51 Parts set 18 All the tender base parts were screwed in place as per the instructions. However with so many small cross head screws I am at present investigating ways of changing their appearance into rivets. Once painted they would look so much better. Next the edging was soldered to the two tender sides. See 'Modelling Know How' for further details. The sides were then screwed into place and the tender joints temporally screwed onto the sides together with the rear tender wall. Whilst the rear wall and joints were held in place by the screws the overlapping sections between the joints and the rear wall was soldered in place on the inside. Once soldered all the joint screws were removed. Having removed the screws, the holes were soldered up and the faces flatted. Finally the last piece of tender edging strip was soldered onto the rear section. regards Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Dennis Another real good looking update. Your getting closer to the end of this one and I bet you will have a top quality build. Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Hi Tony,
Thank you. Yes I am looking forward to completion. The size of the tender makes you rrealize how big the finished loco will be. This has been a quality build, part wise. Whilst I have used soldering were possible, for me it has made the build so much more challenging.
Cheers, Dennis
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Hi Dennis, more lovely work with this one, am enjoying your build and your diary very much..... Nicely done....  Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Hi Alan,
Thank you. An excellent kit requires special attention.
regards
Dennis
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Looking Good. Will be interested in your solution to mod the screws to rivets. Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Dennis This link to a page on model engine maker has a list of web sites with links that stock miniature nuts, bolts and the like. Hope it may be of interest. I have not gone through them all but one or two have some parts that may help. http://www.modelenginema...m/index.php?topic=628.0
Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Hi Jase/Tony,
The solution was a simple one. Drop some superglue onto a surface (easily wiped afterwards).Then use a piece of wire, I used some 1mm brass wire. Dip into superglue. This will pick up a small drop. In turn drop this into the cross of the screw. A little tedious but it works. Only problem is process has to be repeated since superglue depending upon grade is somewhat low build. Obviously ensure you have finished with those screws. Once painted should look like rivets.
I have already tried the process and it works fine. Simple eh!
Cheers
Dennis
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Hi Tony,
Thank you re links. I have already been using brass rivet headed screws plus some hexagon headed screws. Both have been fine. However there are so many screws in the tender base I decided to use the supplied ones. But I decided to convert their appearance.
Cheers
Dennis
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Parts set 19 Firstly please find a picture showing the inside rear wall soldered joints from parts 18 which I did not show last time. Parts set 19 continued to present ideal soldering opportunities being all brass. Whilst the steel 2mm cross head screws were used to hold parts together, once soldered the screws were removed and the screw holes soldered up and then cleaned up. The main soldering continued to be done using the miniature gas burner the screw holes were best done using the 80w iron. All the various valves and pipework was also soldered in place. With these it was easier to tin the pin part of the valve and the ends of the pipework. Then using the miniature burner and liquid flux the soldering was completed. I have completed the sides of the tender bogies but since these are simply glued using epoxy I will leave showing them until completed and painted. I continue to be impressed by the quality of the kit and the fit of parts. Regards, Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Administration  Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 7,942 Points: 23,012 Location: East midlands
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Hi Dennis,  This is one stunning build, especially where the soldering is concerned. WTG  Can understand that in some cases, you have had to resort to superglue, but that if I`m not mistaken is due to the heat required and the metal not being capable of that means of fixing. So if I may suggest, whilst building my brass airframe "STUKA", I`ve used "LOCTITE 496". It sets super quick and is specifically designed for use with brass and the like. Keep up the good work on this one.  I didn`t think I`d get into trains, but this one is seriously giving me second thoughts. Happy Building. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Hi Derek,
Thank you for your comments. I did buy some 496 some time back and have used it occasionally but I find it slow to set.Fortunately I can solder most of the time which I enjoy. As I say the quality of parts is excellent both finish and fit.Although I choose to solder being brass, some of the alloy parts are easily glued or screwed and providing the method is hidden or disguised thats fine. Thank you
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Looks fab. good solution for turning the screws into rivits. as you say a thick CA would work best “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Hi Jase,
Thank you. Yes rivet/screw solution worked well. I look forward to being able to start the paintwork. I suspect the tender may be first in line.
Cheers, Dennis
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Parts sets 19/20 Painting the bogie assemblies. It is some time since I painted the main driving wheels and therefore the bogie assemblies provided the first real opportunity to do some painting/spraying. Firstly since my main hobby is restoring motorcycles then the paints/products I use stem from that hobby. However similar products will be available from the usual modellers outlets. Non magnetic metals such as Aluminium, Brass, Zinc, Stainless steel etc do not provide the ideal surface for paint to adhere to. The simple answer is to use an etch primer first, this keys itself onto the parent metal. Following this I used a primer and finally an almost matt black. In fact I mixed this from a matt black and gloss black. All the paints were applied by airbrush although its possible that a small spray gun maybe better on the large areas such as the tender which will soon be ready for spraying, after parts set 21 anyway. All parts to be sprayed were degreased first followed by masking off the various parts of the axles/surfaces on the wheel sets. The wheel bearings were masked off using small discs of masking tape cut using a cork borer tool. Although masking of the bogie joints would be an obvious solution I decided to complete one side and two ends, then using just three stews I attached the final side. After spraying the side was easily removed and the wheel sets inserted. A drop of oil was added to each bearing even though these wheels are unlikely to ever turn! All the screw heads received a small drop of high build superglue which after painting resembled a rivet. Enjoy the pictures. The tender steps etc will be added soon. regards Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
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Nicely explained and done Dennis Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Lovely paint job Dennis, looking fab..... Regards Alan
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