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Operable Sakae 12 Zero engine build Options
snapdragon
#21 Posted : 02 October 2013 15:52:50

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It does answer my question Andy. Thanks.

I just thought that if replacing the distributor ring with one of the metal ones was possible then it would make the cabling fitting just that bit easier.

Hey! If you don't ask the question then how are we expected to learn! LOL

I am tempted to invest in some alclad II, airbrush and compressor for the working engine. Was your paintjob done with brush or airbrush?

James
arpurchase
#22 Posted : 02 October 2013 16:15:42

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BigGrin Hi Snap
I used an airbrush for the painting theres still some things to do on it yet though
AndyCool
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Warthog
#23 Posted : 02 October 2013 16:21:36

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James there is a mountain of airbrushes out there and if you do not choose wisely then you could end up spending money and wasting it... Get yourself a good cheap one and practice wth that first to get used to it. There are plenty for around £20-£40 so that won't break the bank.. Once your confident with using one then it will only be a matter of time before you'll be making and spraying models like a professional! BigGrin
arpurchase
#24 Posted : 02 October 2013 21:07:55

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BigGrin Hi All
I have been working on the propelor, the front has been sprayed with flat aluminium and the rear of the blades with the tea colour mix, still have the decals to attach and some dulling down to do here aswell
regards
AndyCool
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PA020802.JPG
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Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

Warthog
#25 Posted : 03 October 2013 16:05:22

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Here's a question I need answering BigGrin I see a lot of people polishing the front blades but using what is called a tea colour on the rear of the props.. Why is this? Is there a reason for it on the real thing?. I can't imagine its so the pilot knows there still rotating!

Spencer
arpurchase
#26 Posted : 03 October 2013 17:29:47

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BigGrin Hi Spencer
I have no idea all i know is that early zero's had the tea colour and later in the war it was a semigloss black. Most references tend to state the colours but not the reasons, as a guess perhaps it was to stop reflections caused by sunlight or light on the back surfaces and causing irritation to the pilot, but im probably wrong. There may be someone with the answer out there
regards
AndyCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

MWG
#27 Posted : 03 October 2013 18:50:21

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Hi Andy great job you are doingBigGrin Kind regards Mike
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arpurchase
#28 Posted : 03 October 2013 19:13:52

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BigGrin Hi Mike
Thanks for looking in and your coments
regards
AndyCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

MWG
#29 Posted : 03 October 2013 19:18:46

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Hi Spence,The navel zero (A6M2b) had mattblack added to the rear of the propellers, to prevent glaring reflection from the water, and sun ,preventing the pilot from flying without problem.

Some other operational A6M3`s 1942 known as models 32 and 22(coloured green top, sky blue bottem ) had matt brown painted on the rear of the propellers, again to aid reflection, but also as a first sign of camouflage.

I hope this helps

Kind regards Mike
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#30 Posted : 03 October 2013 20:06:06

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Thanks Mike BigGrin I was thinking that the glare could be one of the reasons why and very interesting at 100000's of RPM it could still cause a problem!

Spencer
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#31 Posted : 06 October 2013 11:44:24

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BigGrin Hi All
Some more progress I have added the decals to the engine case and propelor.
Now some of you have your engines has anyone fired there's up yet, I like at the end when the engine is running down then bursts into life as the remaining fuel is burnt up, a nice little touch I thought.
More soon
regards
AndyCool
arpurchase attached the following image(s):
PA060823.JPG
PA060818.JPG
PA060816.JPG
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

court orchard
#32 Posted : 06 October 2013 12:11:02

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Hi Andy,
Can you clarify the function of the 3 buttons on the remote. Obviously the top one starts it up, but I'm not sure about the other 2 Confused Blushing and which one stops it as I pressed all 3 before it stopped.
Very cool thoughCool ThumpUp
Andy

Building:Samurai Armour, SOTS, Victory X-Section, Bismarck, D51
Finished:WW I Bavarian NCO, Caldercraft HM Bark Endeavour FFG 58 Samuel B Roberts,
arpurchase
#33 Posted : 06 October 2013 12:25:20

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BigGrin Hi Andy
There will be a translation for the instructions as a download shortly but here's a run down on the button functions.
Ok with the infa-red bulb pointing away from you and the on off switch to your right you will have 3 buttons with Japanese written on them. A single one to the top with 2 below it;

Button 1 at the top/ This is the on/off switch press once to start or stop.

Button 2 on the left/ This is the volume up button

Button 3 to the right/ This is the volume down button

Hope this helps
Regards
AndyCool


Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

court orchard
#34 Posted : 06 October 2013 12:42:31

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arpurchase wrote:
BigGrin Hi Andy
There will be a translation for the instructions as a download shortly but here's a run down on the button functions.
Ok with the infa-red bulb pointing away from you and the on off switch to your right you will have 3 buttons with Japanese written on them. A single one to the top with 2 below it;

Button 1 at the top/ This is the on/off switch press once to start or stop.

Button 2 on the left/ This is the volume up button

Button 3 to the right/ This is the volume down button

Hope this helps
Regards
AndyCool




That's spot on Andy, I thought the two lower buttons might be acceleration/deceleration.
It's brilliant the way the sound is perfectly synched with the prop, even as you say that little burst at the end and the prop speeds up for a second too. Just need some zero parts now, to go with it (I only signed up last month)LOL
Andy

Building:Samurai Armour, SOTS, Victory X-Section, Bismarck, D51
Finished:WW I Bavarian NCO, Caldercraft HM Bark Endeavour FFG 58 Samuel B Roberts,
snapdragon
#35 Posted : 07 October 2013 11:13:16

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Looks good Andy. I like your prop and spinner.

I think that I will be doing my engine slightly different regarding colour with humbrol spray 191 Chrome Silver Metallic for the prop and spinner with matt black on the rear of the blades.

Indeed, as has already been mentioned, up to 1943 and the main colour change the back of the prop blades on the zero were matt black. This was done to prevent the pilot being dazzled/blinded by light reflection from the spinning blades.

At the colour change a red/brown colour was introduced for the blades both front and back as well as the spinners, although on certain aircraft the spinner was painted the same as the body. I have found several sources that have information that each aircraft manufacturer had their own shade official shade of the red/brown.

I think that die to the infra-red bulb being built into one of the cylinders then I will brush paint the cylinders with a flat steel and maybe mix in a little metallic black to make detail pop a little.

Yes... I have played with the engine a little and I have been told that the bit at the end where the engine suddenly bursts back into life is when the carburettors are flushed out to remove fuel.

My Little Nephew (of destructive fame) was fascinated by the engine sound and was busy pointing out the detail and asking all about it. I did let him start and stop the engine - after all it is only a couple of button presses - what could go wrong? Blink

I think that this Christmas I may start him off with an Airfix spitfire! His mum (my sister) may not like me for this, but better him braking his own models than mine!!!!!!! LOL

Good Job so far Andy. I like it

James
jase
#36 Posted : 07 October 2013 14:03:51

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Top job AndyBigGrin

J
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#37 Posted : 07 October 2013 14:16:35

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why didn't the powers to be just give the pilots a pair of shades.Cool
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snapdragon
#38 Posted : 07 October 2013 16:33:40

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cost!

Do you know how much a pair of Raybans cost??LOL Laugh
arpurchase
#39 Posted : 07 October 2013 21:42:11

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BigGrin Hi Snnap
As im sure you already know the details of army and navy Zeros and there preferred painting by either is a bone of contention amongst modellers all over the world, you obviously have your sources as I have mine you say matt black was the front facing propelor colour my sources say it was either a gloss or semi-gloss black as it was more hard wearing in a salt enviroment as for the tea colour you need to delve a little deeper than wiki to get the information neededLOL and you can paint yours blue if you want its your engineLOL LOL. A small piece of tissue paper in the infa red hole will stop any over spray in this area the same with the speaker area.
You should also take time to read other peoples posts all the way through as this will stop you repeating things already said.
Thanks as always for your comments
regards
AndyCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

arpurchase
#40 Posted : 07 October 2013 21:54:40

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BigGrin Hi All
Some more pic's on progress after the decals were allowed to dry off a light coat of semi-matt liqueur was applied to both the engine and propelor this has toned down the colours of both and gives the prop that slightly used/worn look.
I still have the cooling gills to add but I need a future issue reference to do them properly.
More soon
Regards
AndyCool
arpurchase attached the following image(s):
PA070824.JPG
PA070827.JPG
PA070829.JPG
PA070832.JPG
PA070833.JPG
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

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