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I collected a pile of small electronics wires, cables etc. and used those with some thin hosing ( that came with the kit) as conduit. Clamps and retainers were fashioned from thin steel sheet cut in strips and some electrical wire pulled from small cables.
Pleased with the instrument cluster. The pressure hose was an old cello string. ( had to buy my wife a new set !! which made me realise how cost effective F1 models are !! ) 
Malc. RM1 attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Nothing wrong with obsessing over all that extra detail Malc, taking it to the extreme is what makes the difference between a nice model and a stunning 'Museum Quality' masterpiece - which is where I think you're headed with this one my friend!!   
I would be very proud of that if I'd made it, it looks so well detailed. Nice job Malc - take a bow!! 
Kev 
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ModelMania wrote:Nothing wrong with obsessing over all that extra detail Malc, taking it to the extreme is what makes the difference between a nice model and a stunning 'Museum Quality' masterpiece - which is where I think you're headed with this one my friend!!
I would be very proud of that if I'd made it, it looks so well detailed. Nice job Malc - take a bow!!
Kev
Wow, thanks Kev. Very nice comments, thank you. 
How's that MP 4/4 going?
Malc.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hi Malc, no problems with the compliments about your work, credit where it's due my friend!!
The MP4/4 won't be happening for a while yet I'm afraid!!
Kev
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Could someone offer a bit of advice please?
I intend to paint a matt black section (beneath ) where the clear screen touches the cockpit cowl. Is there a good way to fix the screen without a messy glue mark showing through ?  I'm also stressing to remove the injection sprue points on the screen moulding......
Thanks in advance.
Malc.RM1 attached the following image(s):
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Hi Malc For attaching clear canopies or any clear plastic I generally use Deluxe materials 'Glue n Glaze'. It dries compleately clear and if used sparingly is hard to see. Iv added a link to flee-bay below http://www.ebay.co.uk/it...amp;hash=item339abd6f2f
Hope this helps Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Andy is correct - glue and glaze is fantastic stuff , there is also microsol kristal Klear. They are both pva based but as you may know some pva does not dry completely clear - these do For the sprue injection marks on transparent parts use micro mesh to polish them out, going through the grades up to 12000 then you will have a perfectly polished transparency. Steve
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hello Malc,
Good advice from Andy and Steve there, the only thing I would add is that there is a better glue than either of those. It's called "Formula 560", is made by 'Pacer' who market the "Zap" superglues and other modelling products? Formula 560 is the strongest canopy glue you will find at the moment, it is intended for use on R/C Aircraft canopies and will therefore take a few knocks but it gives a really good bond between plastics as well and dries very clear? When you are using it you can just wipe away any excess that squeezes out between parts with a damp cloth and you'll end up with a perfect seam. I've used it for a few years now on all of my clear aircraft canopies and I've never had any trouble with it at all and I've still got 3/4 of the original pot left!! You can get it in most good model shops worldwide. This is what you want Malc:
http://www.supergluecorp...formula-560-canopy-glue
The MicroMesh cloth you can get on ebay or any good model shop. It is made by a company called 'Sylmasta' and you can buy it direct from them here:
http://www.sylmasta.com/...o_Mesh_Abrasives_1.html
Be sure to use as many grades as you can getting gradually finer until you are using the finest '12000' grit cloth which is when it will restore a perfectly clear appearance to your part? It takes a bit of confidence to use it as when you first start with the coarser grades it will cloud the clear part and you'll think you've completely ruined it but keep going with the next finer grades as I've said above and don't panic it will be just fine in the end!! Once you have restored the clarity then coat the part in 'Johnsons Klear' liquid floor polish (the stuff that looks like water and has a slight ammonia smell - it's made by 'Pledge' now not 'Johnsons' but I still have some of the original stuff) and the screen will be beautifully clear but don't allow it to collect in puddles on the part, just a thin coat or two and don't touch it till dry, then just polish with a soft cloth and the screen will be clearer than the original kit part (like crystal glass!!).
If you intend to paint the ledge/rim that the screen attaches to in 'matt' black before fitting the screen over it, you will not get a matt effect showing through the clear screen - it will appear glossy because of the polished screen on top of it? Can I ask why you want it Matt?
Hope that helps Malc, any questions just ask?
Kev
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arpurchase wrote: Hi Malc For attaching clear canopies or any clear plastic I generally use Deluxe materials 'Glue n Glaze'. It dries compleately clear and if used sparingly is hard to see. Iv added a link to flee-bay below http://www.ebay.co.uk/it...amp;hash=item339abd6f2f
Hope this helps Andy Thanks Andy, I see if there's something like that locally
Malc.
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stevie_o wrote:Andy is correct - glue and glaze is fantastic stuff , there is also microsol kristal Klear. They are both pva based but as you may know some pva does not dry completely clear - these do For the sprue injection marks on transparent parts use micro mesh to polish them out, going through the grades up to 12000 then you will have a perfectly polished transparency. Steve Hi Steve, many thanks. I see what I can get hold off.
Malc.
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ModelMania wrote:Hello Malc,
Good advice from Andy and Steve there, the only thing I would add is that there is a better glue than either of those. It's called "Formula 560", is made by 'Pacer' who market the "Zap" superglues and other modelling products? Formula 560 is the strongest canopy glue you will find at the moment, it is intended for use on R/C Aircraft canopies and will therefore take a few knocks but it gives a really good bond between plastics as well and dries very clear? When you are using it you can just wipe away any excess that squeezes out between parts with a damp cloth and you'll end up with a perfect seam. I've used it for a few years now on all of my clear aircraft canopies and I've never had any trouble with it at all and I've still got 3/4 of the original pot left!! You can get it in most good model shops worldwide. This is what you want Malc:
http://www.supergluecorp...formula-560-canopy-glue
The MicroMesh cloth you can get on ebay or any good model shop. It is made by a company called 'Sylmasta' and you can buy it direct from them here:
http://www.sylmasta.com/...o_Mesh_Abrasives_1.html
Be sure to use as many grades as you can getting gradually finer until you are using the finest '12000' grit cloth which is when it will restore a perfectly clear appearance to your part? It takes a bit of confidence to use it as when you first start with the coarser grades it will cloud the clear part and you'll think you've completely ruined it but keep going with the next finer grades as I've said above and don't panic it will be just fine in the end!! Once you have restored the clarity then coat the part in 'Johnsons Klear' liquid floor polish (the stuff that looks like water and has a slight ammonia smell - it's made by 'Pledge' now not 'Johnsons' but I still have some of the original stuff) and the screen will be beautifully clear but don't allow it to collect in puddles on the part, just a thin coat or two and don't touch it till dry, then just polish with a soft cloth and the screen will be clearer than the original kit part (like crystal glass!!).
If you intend to paint the ledge/rim that the screen attaches to in 'matt' black before fitting the screen over it, you will not get a matt effect showing through the clear screen - it will appear glossy because of the polished screen on top of it? Can I ask why you want it Matt?
Hope that helps Malc, any questions just ask?
Kev
Hi Kev,
Looks like there's a couple of products that will work, thanks for the tip. I'll try the local model aircraft shop and see what they have in stock.
I've seen the micromesh cloth so I'll get a pack of that. It seems to come with a foam rubber block to support the mesh. Would one usually work with that? I guess that the process is done with water? I'm sure I can find a piece of clear acrylic to have a practice with 
As for the polish I'll check the local supermarket.
Cheers.
Malc.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hello Malc,
Personally, I've never bothered with the foam pad - I think it's just for giving a soft even pressure when sanding. I just cut a sheet into four lengths and wrap a length around the tip of a finger so that it can't move in my hand and then use it like that? I'll probably get someone saying that's wrong but it works for me!!
Kev
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ModelMania wrote:Hello Malc,
Personally, I've never bothered with the foam pad - I think it's just for giving a soft even pressure when sanding. I just cut a sheet into four lengths and wrap a length around the tip of a finger so that it can't move in my hand and then use it like that? I'll probably get someone saying that's wrong but it works for me!!
Kev Hi Kev,
a finger tip may actually be better for compound curves like a wind screen. I'll try and find some micromesh this weekend.
Malc.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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RM1 wrote:ModelMania wrote:Hello Malc,
Personally, I've never bothered with the foam pad - I think it's just for giving a soft even pressure when sanding. I just cut a sheet into four lengths and wrap a length around the tip of a finger so that it can't move in my hand and then use it like that? I'll probably get someone saying that's wrong but it works for me!!
Kev Hi Kev,
a finger tip may actually be better for compound curves like a wind screen. I'll try and find some micromesh this weekend.
Malc. Hello Malc,
I know you probably don't need telling this but the thought had occurred to me, you need to be very careful when sanding that screen as the sides of it look very long and thin and might easily snap or if you bend it too much, you might get some 'crazing' within the plastic itself which you will not be able to get rid of? I'd support the back of the side you are sanding with something a bit solid like a strip of very stiff cardboard or something?
I would hate to see what is already a fantastic looking model ruined by a cracked screen!!
All the best Malc and hope it all goes well,
Kev
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ModelMania wrote:RM1 wrote:ModelMania wrote:Hello Malc,
Personally, I've never bothered with the foam pad - I think it's just for giving a soft even pressure when sanding. I just cut a sheet into four lengths and wrap a length around the tip of a finger so that it can't move in my hand and then use it like that? I'll probably get someone saying that's wrong but it works for me!!
Kev Hi Kev,
a finger tip may actually be better for compound curves like a wind screen. I'll try and find some micromesh this weekend.
Malc. Hello Malc,
I know you probably don't need telling this but the thought had occurred to me, you need to be very careful when sanding that screen as the sides of it look very long and thin and might easily snap or if you bend it too much, you might get some 'crazing' within the plastic itself which you will not be able to get rid of? I'd support the back of the side you are sanding with something a bit solid like a strip of very stiff cardboard or something?
I would hate to see what is already a fantastic looking model ruined by a cracked screen!!
All the best Malc and hope it all goes well,
Kev Hi Kev,
Yes, the screen is quite flimsy. I'm thinking that I need only polish the edge where the injection points are. In that way the bulk of the surface would be untouched.
BTW the idea of matt black finish comes from the kit instructions where it's shown as a finish on the inside of the cowl as well. I haven't decided on that yet but you're right that the surface where the transparent screen touches will look gloss.
Malc.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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RM1 wrote:Hi Kev,
Yes, the screen is quite flimsy. I'm thinking that I need only polish the edge where the injection points are. In that way the bulk of the surface would be untouched.
BTW the idea of matt black finish comes from the kit instructions where it's shown as a finish on the inside of the cowl as well. I haven't decided on that yet but you're right that the surface where the transparent screen touches will look gloss.
Malc. Hello Malc,
That MicroMesh is so good at polishing plastic that you might the injection points end up looking slightly more transparent than the rest of the screen which hasn't been polished? Although the kit part looks clear and shiny it is relatively rough if you were to look at it under a microscope as it is only as good as the mould surface from which it was made? If you find there is a negligible difference between the polished and unpolished areas then a coat of that 'Johnsons' liquid floor polish should blend that out?
Regards the black finish on the cowling Malc, I have just had a look at the Yardley McLaren on that 'Phil Mauger' site (which I believe I gave you the link to and which you are using as reference source?) and if you look towards the bottom of the page in the 'Exterior' section, the very first photo shows that the black area beneath the clear screen does indeed have a shiny appearance because of the screen being on top of it? Most kit instructions are only ever generalised when it comes to the painting suggestions and I wouldn't bother with painting that area Matt as you may find that a 'satin' or plain gloss black looks better when the screen has been glued in place over it? Also by using Matt (I'm thinking outside the box here) it MIGHT make the glue look a little less transparent or even very slightly cloudy? Similar to the 'silvering' effect you get when you try to place decals on a matt surface - the glossier the paint the better the decal sits down on the surface and prevents the silvering which is just air trapped between the decal and the inherently rough surface of matt paint? I may be thinking a bit 'OTT' there and there may be no such problem if using matt but personally, if the black was going to look shiny through the screen then why not just make it shiny, or at least satin, beneath as well?
Hope that helps Malc,
Kev
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ModelMania wrote:RM1 wrote:Hi Kev,
Yes, the screen is quite flimsy. I'm thinking that I need only polish the edge where the injection points are. In that way the bulk of the surface would be untouched.
BTW the idea of matt black finish comes from the kit instructions where it's shown as a finish on the inside of the cowl as well. I haven't decided on that yet but you're right that the surface where the transparent screen touches will look gloss.
Malc. Hello Malc,
That MicroMesh is so good at polishing plastic that you might the injection points end up looking slightly more transparent than the rest of the screen which hasn't been polished? Although the kit part looks clear and shiny it is relatively rough if you were to look at it under a microscope as it is only as good as the mould surface from which it was made? If you find there is a negligible difference between the polished and unpolished areas then a coat of that 'Johnsons' liquid floor polish should blend that out?
Regards the black finish on the cowling Malc, I have just had a look at the Yardley McLaren on that 'Phil Mauger' site (which I believe I gave you the link to and which you are using as reference source?) and if you look towards the bottom of the page in the 'Exterior' section, the very first photo shows that the black area beneath the clear screen does indeed have a shiny appearance because of the screen being on top of it? Most kit instructions are only ever generalised when it comes to the painting suggestions and I wouldn't bother with painting that area Matt as you may find that a 'satin' or plain gloss black looks better when the screen has been glued in place over it? Also by using Matt (I'm thinking outside the box here) it MIGHT make the glue look a little less transparent or even very slightly cloudy? Similar to the 'silvering' effect you get when you try to place decals on a matt surface - the glossier the paint the better the decal sits down on the surface and prevents the silvering which is just air trapped between the decal and the inherently rough surface of matt paint? I may be thinking a bit 'OTT' there and there may be no such problem if using matt but personally, if the black was going to look shiny through the screen then why not just make it shiny, or at least satin, beneath as well?
Hope that helps Malc,
Kev Hi Kev,
I've been referencing those Phil Muger car pictures through this build. It looks like there is a gloss black stripe on the surface of the lower edge of the screen. I have been thinking about spraying a gloss black edge and adding a bit of retaining rivet detail. The masking of a curved surface like that may prove a challenge.
Failing that you're suggestion of gloss black underneath is for sure the right one.
Malc.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Always glad to help Malc and good luck with that screen.
Kev
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Found some micromesh in a model shop in the north of Jo'burg. After a bit of practice on some scrap parts I gave it a go with the screen. Decided to add a black finish to the lower edge of the screen with painted fasteners, quiet happy with the result.
The instructions state that the mesh should be used in straight strokes and not circular which seemed a bit odd, but that's what I did and it seems to work. Can anyone give some advice on that?
Malc.RM1 attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Hello Malc,
Yes that is correct, straight strokes. You can sand in different directions but it needs to be at 90 degrees to each other - in other words sand in squares, not circles? I have to admit that I do occasionally ignore that but straight strokes is the recommended way and will give the best polishing results.
That screen has polished up beautifully Malc and the difference between 'before and after' is very apparent. Love the black strip and the fasteners are excellent - well done my friend, top job!!
That's you converted to the use of Micromesh from now on then eh?
Kev
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